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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    The creepiest situation I have ever experienced happened right near home, Assateague Island to be exact. I arrived at the beach first thing in the morning to perfect conditions. A friend was right behind and we kept commenting that this was too good to be true, I mean perfect conditions, solid surf and no one out. Turns out we were right to be concerned. We suited up paddled out and caught a few good waves but the feeling was always there, like the shoe was gonna drop and it was hard to relax. Then we saw it, it was huge like 10 feet long with a giant fin. It was circling just outside of us right as a set approached. We turned hoping to catch the wave and get away but it seemed to catch the wave and was coming right at us. We felt a mixture of fear and annoyance all at once. Not only were we afraid for our life but it ruined a perfect set. Just as it got close it lost momentum and then just sat there. Finally it struggled to it's feet, moaned something about getting old, grabbed its paddle and made it's way back to the outside. I got a good look at it as it paddled away. I would put it at around 55 years old with a greyish paler to the skin and a clueless look to it's face. I will never forget that morning.
    Last edited by Zippy; May 14, 2012 at 06:18 PM.

  2. #12
    Moss Landing in Northern California. Dark foggy Big waves. Sharky feeling. couldnt even enjoy myself. O and week later someone was bit in half by 18 foot great white....

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Milford, DE
    Posts
    152
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    40
    Quote Originally Posted by leethestud View Post
    yeah found myself a rock / reef break in the cliffs between Hermosa and Jaco on a big day when the beaches were closing out. I get out there to what I think is the take off zone just to take a set on the head in about 2' of water. I brush that one off and go out further... and the current takes me. I see Jaco rapidly approaching and end up belly surfing in through the maxed out black sand closeouts and wash up almost 2 miles from where I paddled out. F*ck everything about that day.
    I almost drowned surfing Jaco, I was very tired after surfing 4 straight days, tried to fit in one more session before departure. Waves were in the solid 6ft range, I got dragged down the beach underwater after taking on one the head, and then I took another on the head which started to freak me out... I was done.

    My scariest though was surfing Little Hawaii in Costa Rica with 10-12ft ripping right-handers, only five of us out, storm squalls all over with overcast skies, the shore break waves were no less than 8 feet with a nasty drift. I caught a few waves, but i was pooping my pants the whole time.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Zippy View Post
    The creepiest situation I have ever experienced happened right near home, Assateague Island to be exact. I arrived at the beach first thing in the morning to perfect conditions. A friend was right behind and we kept commenting that this was too good to be true, I mean perfect conditions, solid surf and no one out. Turns out we were right to be concerned. We suited up paddled out and caught a few good waves but the feeling was always there, like the shoe was gonna drop and it was hard to relax. Then we saw it, it was huge like 10 feet long with a giant fin. It was circling just outside of us right as a set approached. We turned hoping to catch the wave and get away but it seemed to catch the wave and was coming right at us. We felt a mixture of fear and annoyance all at once. Not only were we afraid for our life but it ruined a perfect set. Just as it got close it lost momentum and then just sat there. Finally it struggled to it's feet, moaned something about getting old, grabbed its paddle and made it's way back to the outside. I got a good look at it as it paddled away. I would put it at around 55 years old with a greyish paler to the skin and a clueless look to it's face. I will never forget that morning.
    hahahahahaha

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    3

    North Shore Oahu

    Overcast day, brown water advisory, on Oahu's Haleiwa Ali'i Beach Park during a 4-6 ft hawaiian day. Only one guy was in the water before I went out. On my paddle out to the break that guy went in and I had a freaky feeling about being out there on my own because you couldnt see much in the water due to the brown water advisory and thats when the tiger sharks come in close. Saw lots of turtles and a few seals. Constantly thought I was going to be chomped for sure and at least the life guards couldnt lose me because I was the only one in the water! Got a few waves but I have had a few days like that where you cant see in the water and dont know what is under you on top of surfing a heavy break.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    1,430
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    5
    hahahahahaha
    I thought you would like that, lol

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Long branch
    Posts
    664
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    16
    Puerto Escondido in mexico. **** myself when i kicked out of a wave and saw 4 sets feathering waaaaaay out there, tried to go thru the lip and got sucked over haha, you can see it in the vid. the day was a little overhead and this wave was f*ucken huge, im not great at wave sizing but id say it was around 13-14+ feet. and 3 more coming right after it. i have a 3 sec clip of me going thru the 1st set wave and getting sucked over. anyone know how to post a video on the forum?
    Last edited by mexsurfer; May 14, 2012 at 07:40 PM.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    VB via PR and HI
    Posts
    231
    Those are some heavy spots - Moss Landing, Puerto, Portugal...I was most nervous at an Outer Reef North of V Land on Oahu. 5ft HI scale and one other guy out in shifty but perfect lines. Or an outer reef in between Ali'i and Day Star in Waialua. Most of the time so busy jockying for position not to have my ass handed to me that it's just not enjoyable but you gotta go anyway. Or Viginia Beach in July...Outer Reefs are mystical surfing experiences but scary, nonetheless and I look forward to doing it again every day I'm on the east coast.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    VB via PR and HI
    Posts
    231
    Quote Originally Posted by mexsurfer View Post
    Puerto Escondido in mexico. **** myself when i kicked out of a wave and saw 4 sets feathering waaaaaay out there, tried to go thru the lip and got sucked over haha, you can see it in the vid. the day was a little overhead and this wave was f*ucken huge, im not great at wave sizing but id say it was around 13-14+ feet. and 3 more coming right after it. i have a 3 sec clip of me going thru the 1st set wave and getting sucked over. anyone know how to post a video on the forum?
    Just Q&A it in the forum not that time consuming- I'd like to see the vid

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Long branch
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    Quote Originally Posted by havanasand View Post
    Just Q&A it in the forum not that time consuming- I'd like to see the vid
    im gonna search i wanna post it