As fun as it may be, it makes absolutely no sense to me. Bottom line, your maneuvering a board in the ocean to avoid "wiping out". I mean I guess it sounds like a cool thing to do every once in a while but why the F*** are we so addicted???
Addicted, addicted,addicted....I got a major problem and love every minute of it!!!! Only problem is a I live on the east coast and can't get my fix everyday. Surfing has taken me to the most beautiful and exotic places in the world, I've met some of the coolest people on the planet, eaten some of the best food, and oh yea catchin a wave ain't to bad either. Rehab is for quitters.
Therapy. Its just one of those ways that we humans have found that lets us truly be in harmony with the earth and the forces around it and that move it. Its simple to see how it could be addictive..It makes us happy. Who isn't for that?..oh yeah, inspiration too.
maybe next time your out try to close your eyes, feel the energy... feel the waves, understand that once you enter the ocean it is no longer home.. it is no longer safe.. the ocean is the only place on earth where man i not top of the food chain. it is about the feeling of being lost.. forgetting about everything and let the ocean taking you over... today and wed i was out with my best friends and their is nothing better than sharing waves hooting and hollering. and enjoying the beauty of this world. never take it for granted because you never know when you won't get it again.