I am with Lee. It seems like it is not just surfing that is going through a "pussification" but the whole country. I know I will be accused of old fartism here but it WAS different when I learned. (late 70s, early 80s). You didn't dare go anywhere near the older, seasoned guys. It was like showing up at a Pagans MC run on a Vespa. You had to fall in with your own pack of buddies and as you got older you took over. It was fun, it was safe, it was REGULATED by those in the water. No F%cking lawsuits or cops.
Now, everyone wants to claim their right to surf no matter their age, skill level, or type of craft. Is change always a good thing?