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  1. #61
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    St. Augustine, FL
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    Quote Originally Posted by CBSCREWBY View Post
    If I had started reading Swell Info Forums before I started surfing, I would have stuck to raping and pillaging. It's lot safer and I ran with a nicer crowd. Seriously, I've never seen anything as agro in a line-up as this messed up sh!t.
    Hahahahaha! Sooooooo funny! And a hats off to Mikey!

    Now I must point out that a TD formed off the East coast and WENT SOUTH!

    Forecaster man said "not normal.. There has only been 18 named storms since record keeping began (1880'ish, i forget the exact year). When they do develop super early they usually develop off the Florida coast or in the Gulf. "

    And all you guys can do is cock fight all day long?!

    Kyle.....I understand you and agree with you......but you're getting no where with those who disagree. Cut your losses and save your energy for good vibes.

    Stud-lee......who's the troll now?

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Stayin' Classy in San Diego
    Posts
    1,499

    Surfing is not a hobby

    Quote Originally Posted by Don Ride View Post
    No water related activity needs a hard a$$ identity. If you are out there and someone is in trouble, you do what you can to help. The more people out there, the more important safety issues become. That is the only way use and access can be sustainable. If some kid gets speared by a runaway surfboard, SUP, Kite, or Jet Ski due to the operator’s negligence that operator is responsible.

    That also goes to say that the activity that is causing problems can be banned at any time. Everyone on the water owes everyone else out there respect in terms of safety.
    If you just have to be a hard a$$ about your hobbies do cage fighting, boxing, Kun FU, or fung U anything where all the participants agree to the level of risk.

    it sure as heck ain't for me. i've devoted too many hours. my hearing. my eyesight. my knees. my shoulders.

    i've been wracked with pain and run a fever for 3 days from sting ray sting. i've been stung by man o' war so bad that it left scars. i've surfed so much that my nipples BLED just cause i didn't have a rash guard and there were waves. i've broken bones. snapped boards. required surgery and months of rehab for injury. driven 6 hours in the middle of the night for a 2 foot swell cause i was exiled to the tech companies of austin. i've paid through the nose just to live near the beach. given up acreage and 2500 sq. ft. inland for a bread box on a decent break (well rented it out anyway). all that and i run a higher chance of getting cancer or hepatitis, just cause i surf. this is called "PAYING YOUR DUES." something no one wants to do anymore. i don't know anybody who's in their garage playing with toy trains, who's been bitten by a shark. ask my sister the nurse how the arthritis in her hand from that feels. they were lucky to be able to sew it back together. took 3 month before she was able to hold anything in it again. she still surfs every chance she gets and it was a BABY shark. ask my father-in-law how he liked having a couple of vertebrae in his neck fused together last month and how much he's itching to get back in the water, if he ever can again. he has nerve compression from paddling for 50 years, put off the surgery until he couldn't hardly move his right arm anymore because doctors would only give him a 50% chance of every being able to "have "an active lifestyle" (a.k.a. surf) again. it's not a "hard a$$ identity". to surf, you have to be tough. no BS. if you're not, this is not the "hobby" for you.

    i cast my lot with the old guard. lee, earl, pumpmaster, all the hard liners; they're right. nobody owes you anything. the sea is 100% unforgiving and is trying to kill you. it is no one else's responsibility to help you in distress. unless they're paid to do it, it is an individual's personal choice to put themselves at risk to help others. or wear a leash or not snake your wave. that's what i like about it. nobody tells me what to do and respect must be earned. my earliest memories are of being in the water, i stood up on a surfboard in whitewash before i learned how to ride a bike. i competed on swim teams from the time i was 6 until I graduated HS at 16. i practically have gills, BUT the OCEAN still DEMANDS my respect, but that's the only thing out there that wasn't born with flippers, gills or tentacles and has big teeth or a nasty sting that does. i'm gonna help and be a nice guy 'cause it's makes me feel good about myself, but NOT because i have to, because i don't. if i paddle out to someplace i've never surfed or where i'm not a local, i respect the line-up and the regulars. why? because if you get too out of line, someone will check your @ss, that's life in the water. that's surfing, unless you are a really hot chick and there's only one of those for every 10 chicks who surf and there's only one chick for every 100 guys. or a little kid. but hot chicks and little kids live by different rules. they also stick to the nice safe tourist breaks, unless they're hard core and not just "hobbyists". people who climb mountains where there is no chance of SAR understand this mentality. the problem is that most surf breaks in the U.S. are frequented by toruists. suburban mom and pops that think that jr. should go out and try it, it looks like so much fun. they're not getting in the water themselves, but they're sure one of the nice older surfers will take care of him if he's in trouble. or it's some old dude having a mid-life crisis and instead of a miata he buys a surfboard. surfing kills people. it's not skiing (skiing kills too, but Sonny Bono is no great loss). you don't go to the beach like you go to Vail and buy too much crap and take some lessons and you're suddenly a surfer. there is only one guarantee that comes with surfing. it's gonna hurt. the next time you're about to paddle out, ask yourself, "if I have to get back to the beach broken and bleeding, on my own, can I?" i do, then i ask myself can i make it up the cliff trail too. AGAIN

    MY FIRST EXPOSURE TO HOW SERIOUS SURFING COULD BE WAS A SARCOPHOGUS. when I was 5 and a half years old, we moved from Corpus to Guam. we stayed at a friend of a friend's house. the people who owned this beautiful house had moved away. i asked why, the friend of a friend, said, "did you see the big stone box out front?" "yes" "their son is in there. he died surfing right out front, the house reminded them of him so they moved back to California." the house was on a reef break and the teenager had grown up surfing in Cali. there aren't that many surfers in Guam. when we left Guam, that house was the last place we stayed too. we moved to Cali and that's where i went from catching some waves in the whitewash to BEING a surfer. there really is a difference. some will understand, some will not.

    you talk about level of risk. here's the level of risk. if you surf there's a 100% chance that you will be injured. surfing has been commoditized since its adoption by main stream popular culture in the 1950's. its public image has been softened to the point that anybody thinks, "I can be a surfer." they're wrong. the majority of people in our society cannot handle the serious consequences of their actions. right now all the suckers who bought a certain IPO at 150 times revised earnings value are trying to sue whomever they can because they lost money. caveat emptor. there is only one guarantee in this life, you will lose it. can you handle that? maybe you can, but for the average john q. public, i don't think so. you talk of banning activity. you can't change human behavior through legislation. i offer the war on drugs as an example. there is no other breed of men on this planet, like those who do so called "adventure sports". these are the last of a dying breed, you can't control their behavior through legislation. remember a drug test is not testing for drugs, it is testing your intelligence. there are laws compelling or banning all sorts of behavior. EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM IS BEING BROKEN. the idea of legislating or banning surfers' behavior is ludicrous. go heard cats instead. most of the people i see "surfing" can't even duck dive, let alone surf a wave. the concept of being a waterman and the skill set that goes with that, will never be attained by the majority of people who get in the water.

    if this thread strikes a dissonant chord with you i'm sorry, i suggest you surf near the life guard tower. there aren't any of those were i surf, the cliff is too damn steep and the narrow spit of a beach ain't wide enough. There are still plenty of barnies though. Some of them will one day be surfers.


    See you on the reef in 6 hours. PEACE

    SURFING SUCKS - DON'T TRY IT.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Jupiter, FL
    Posts
    113
    Quote Originally Posted by yourdirtymomma View Post
    Hahahahaha! Sooooooo funny! And a hats off to Mikey!

    Now I must point out that a TD formed off the East coast and WENT SOUTH!

    Forecaster man said "not normal.. There has only been 18 named storms since record keeping began (1880'ish, i forget the exact year). When they do develop super early they usually develop off the Florida coast or in the Gulf. "

    And all you guys can do is cock fight all day long?!

    Kyle.....I understand you and agree with you......but you're getting no where with those who disagree. Cut your losses and save your energy for good vibes.

    Stud-lee......who's the troll now?

    I'm done, it's basically the same ole' progressive vs. neanderthal debate. Just a slow day at work and not even windswell in the aqua today, but I'll leave it alone.

    On a side note, Go Heat.

  4. #64
    Quote Originally Posted by Earl of Funk/Duke of Cool View Post
    I am with Lee. It seems like it is not just surfing that is going through a "pussification" but the whole country. I know I will be accused of old fartism here but it WAS different when I learned. (late 70s, early 80s). You didn't dare go anywhere near the older, seasoned guys. It was like showing up at a Pagans MC run on a Vespa. You had to fall in with your own pack of buddies and as you got older you took over. It was fun, it was safe, it was REGULATED by those in the water. No F%cking lawsuits or cops.
    Now, everyone wants to claim their right to surf no matter their age, skill level, or type of craft. Is change always a good thing?
    Dear Kyle,
    Sorry for the late reply to all of your wisdom. I was surfing then working. Please don't call me a Neanderthal because I explained how it WAS when I first learned to surf. I never said it was right. It was just the REAL WORLD back then. When I said regulated, I meant you surfed at the next sandbar down from the more experienced guys. It wasn't like Da Hui pounding Rick Kane but close. Even if it was only dirty, smelly, rude, crappy NJ, it was just where I happened to be born. I also was stating the obvious that the problems lee stated are a microcosm of lots of issues our great country is having. You seem like an enlightened liberal telling everyone what is RIGHT. We seem like ignorant conservatives, telling everyone to F%ck off.
    I simply stated that back in the day (old fart alert) it seemed safer in the water when there wasn't all these newcomers and new types of craft at every break all year long. (except mid-winter). I have never had a physical altercation over waves in America. (One in France when I was in my 20s) It is all about fun, but it aint fun when it aint safe. Kyle, sorry to use the word aint, I know a nice liberal fellow like yourself will correct me.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Treasure Coast
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    38
    It's nice to see this energy focused on something other than us lowly spongers!!!
    2 days ago I paddled out into 2 to 4 ft mush down here in Sunny Florida, Power Plants north of Jensen Beach. 3 of us in the water. 1 SUP, 1 Short board and me on my boogie. I felt like I was in a living version of a thread, except the they didn't judge me for what I was riding. At least not to my face!! Argue your point here, learn here, share here, and break down the old stereotypes. I'm still looking for someone to trade some art for an old longboard?..I give you 1 week Lee!

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Charleston
    Posts
    913
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    8
    Quote Originally Posted by H2O'C View Post
    It's nice to see this energy focused on something other than us lowly spongers!!!
    2 days ago I paddled out into 2 to 4 ft mush down here in Sunny Florida, Power Plants north of Jensen Beach. 3 of us in the water. 1 SUP, 1 Short board and me on my boogie. I felt like I was in a living version of a thread, except the they didn't judge me for what I was riding. At least not to my face!! Argue your point here, learn here, share here, and break down the old stereotypes. I'm still looking for someone to trade some art for an old longboard?..I give you 1 week Lee!

    H2O'C,

    This departure was a little more dramatic than yours but I'm glad to see you're still around. I searched the site and realized everytime there is some cool artwork up here it tends to be yours... Good work Art Kook!

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    173
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    Thanks dude!!

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    in the grace of the most holy FSM
    Posts
    2,835
    Quote Originally Posted by zaGaffer View Post
    it sure as heck ain't for me. i've devoted too many hours. my hearing. my eyesight. my knees. my shoulders.

    i've been wracked with pain and run a fever for 3 days from sting ray sting. i've been stung by man o' war so bad that it left scars. i've surfed so much that my nipples BLED just cause i didn't have a rash guard and there were waves. i've broken bones. snapped boards. required surgery and months of rehab for injury. driven 6 hours in the middle of the night for a 2 foot swell cause i was exiled to the tech companies of austin. i've paid through the nose just to live near the beach. given up acreage and 2500 sq. ft. inland for a bread box on a decent break (well rented it out anyway). all that and i run a higher chance of getting cancer or hepatitis, just cause i surf. this is called "PAYING YOUR DUES." something no one wants to do anymore. i don't know anybody who's in their garage playing with toy trains, who's been bitten by a shark. ask my sister the nurse how the arthritis in her hand from that feels. they were lucky to be able to sew it back together. took 3 month before she was able to hold anything in it again. she still surfs every chance she gets and it was a BABY shark. ask my father-in-law how he liked having a couple of vertebrae in his neck fused together last month and how much he's itching to get back in the water, if he ever can again. he has nerve compression from paddling for 50 years, put off the surgery until he couldn't hardly move his right arm anymore because doctors would only give him a 50% chance of every being able to "have "an active lifestyle" (a.k.a. surf) again. it's not a "hard a$$ identity". to surf, you have to be tough. no BS. if you're not, this is not the "hobby" for you.

    i cast my lot with the old guard. lee, earl, pumpmaster, all the hard liners; they're right. nobody owes you anything. the sea is 100% unforgiving and is trying to kill you. it is no one else's responsibility to help you in distress. unless they're paid to do it, it is an individual's personal choice to put themselves at risk to help others. or wear a leash or not snake your wave. that's what i like about it. nobody tells me what to do and respect must be earned. my earliest memories are of being in the water, i stood up on a surfboard in whitewash before i learned how to ride a bike. i competed on swim teams from the time i was 6 until I graduated HS at 16. i practically have gills, BUT the OCEAN still DEMANDS my respect, but that's the only thing out there that wasn't born with flippers, gills or tentacles and has big teeth or a nasty sting that does. i'm gonna help and be a nice guy 'cause it's makes me feel good about myself, but NOT because i have to, because i don't. if i paddle out to someplace i've never surfed or where i'm not a local, i respect the line-up and the regulars. why? because if you get too out of line, someone will check your @ss, that's life in the water. that's surfing, unless you are a really hot chick and there's only one of those for every 10 chicks who surf and there's only one chick for every 100 guys. or a little kid. but hot chicks and little kids live by different rules. they also stick to the nice safe tourist breaks, unless they're hard core and not just "hobbyists". people who climb mountains where there is no chance of SAR understand this mentality. the problem is that most surf breaks in the U.S. are frequented by toruists. suburban mom and pops that think that jr. should go out and try it, it looks like so much fun. they're not getting in the water themselves, but they're sure one of the nice older surfers will take care of him if he's in trouble. or it's some old dude having a mid-life crisis and instead of a miata he buys a surfboard. surfing kills people. it's not skiing (skiing kills too, but Sonny Bono is no great loss). you don't go to the beach like you go to Vail and buy too much crap and take some lessons and you're suddenly a surfer. there is only one guarantee that comes with surfing. it's gonna hurt. the next time you're about to paddle out, ask yourself, "if I have to get back to the beach broken and bleeding, on my own, can I?" i do, then i ask myself can i make it up the cliff trail too. AGAIN

    MY FIRST EXPOSURE TO HOW SERIOUS SURFING COULD BE WAS A SARCOPHOGUS. when I was 5 and a half years old, we moved from Corpus to Guam. we stayed at a friend of a friend's house. the people who owned this beautiful house had moved away. i asked why, the friend of a friend, said, "did you see the big stone box out front?" "yes" "their son is in there. he died surfing right out front, the house reminded them of him so they moved back to California." the house was on a reef break and the teenager had grown up surfing in Cali. there aren't that many surfers in Guam. when we left Guam, that house was the last place we stayed too. we moved to Cali and that's where i went from catching some waves in the whitewash to BEING a surfer. there really is a difference. some will understand, some will not.

    you talk about level of risk. here's the level of risk. if you surf there's a 100% chance that you will be injured. surfing has been commoditized since its adoption by main stream popular culture in the 1950's. its public image has been softened to the point that anybody thinks, "I can be a surfer." they're wrong. the majority of people in our society cannot handle the serious consequences of their actions. right now all the suckers who bought a certain IPO at 150 times revised earnings value are trying to sue whomever they can because they lost money. caveat emptor. there is only one guarantee in this life, you will lose it. can you handle that? maybe you can, but for the average john q. public, i don't think so. you talk of banning activity. you can't change human behavior through legislation. i offer the war on drugs as an example. there is no other breed of men on this planet, like those who do so called "adventure sports". these are the last of a dying breed, you can't control their behavior through legislation. remember a drug test is not testing for drugs, it is testing your intelligence. there are laws compelling or banning all sorts of behavior. EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM IS BEING BROKEN. the idea of legislating or banning surfers' behavior is ludicrous. go heard cats instead. most of the people i see "surfing" can't even duck dive, let alone surf a wave. the concept of being a waterman and the skill set that goes with that, will never be attained by the majority of people who get in the water.

    if this thread strikes a dissonant chord with you i'm sorry, i suggest you surf near the life guard tower. there aren't any of those were i surf, the cliff is too damn steep and the narrow spit of a beach ain't wide enough. There are still plenty of barnies though. Some of them will one day be surfers.


    See you on the reef in 6 hours. PEACE

    SURFING SUCKS - DON'T TRY IT.

    post of the year.

  9. #69
    I'd like to thank everyone here for posting four pages of drivel while I scored.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Out on the island
    Posts
    290
    I enjoy reading these threads and rarely post but I wanted to speak up this time. I don't know why. I don't know any of you people, but I do enjoy this forum and guys like Lee and the pumpmaster are why along with the folks who are arguing with them. i don't know what the heck this thread is about anymore but i know this:

    Anyone can become a surfer...anyone. But anyone that thinks surfing is a hobby is not one. There is a code to surfing that is unwritten and to become a surfer that code has to be learned and followed. This code, more of a guideline really ( guess the movie quote), is open to some interpretation depending where you're surfing. Go to most surf breaks and follow the code and there is no issue. Not following the code is grounds for regulation. This form of the regulation will depend what you did, how many times you did it and where you are. The times i've actually seen it come to blows are few and I have been surfing for 20+ years. What is great about surfing is this regulation stays in house. We don't call the cops. ever.
    This is the way it has always been since surfing began and I hope it never changes.

    Try dropping in on a hawaiian king pre captain cook and see what would have happened to you. you would probably be eaten at the next luau.

    I have a family, a career, a mortgage and all the rest of the american dream and I am a surfer.
    If anyone finds it sad that my entire life has been influenced by surfing and its code, it is because you are not one.