im not "defined" by surfing. I'm certainly not one dimensional. I wrote surfing influences me.
i learned respect from my dad not from surfing. i don't need to be respected. i like to have respect and i respect others wishes. i traveled the world and surfed in places you wish you have. i showed respect when i was there and was given respect becuase of it.
i wasn't even thinking of you when i posted. i was enjoying your posts. I didn't attack you for what you believe i listened and retorted.
i believe you have a issues with reading comprehension. you may think before you speak but you do not bother to comprehend what you are reading before you write. if you feel that is an attack its not it just ny opinion.
i chose to not call you a "surfer". You are not one which is clear by what you are saying. plus the fact that you left a wave rich coast for this one and FLA to boot. this is also not an attck but what i think.
I chose to not call you a "watersport enthuisiast" just becuase it sounds stupid.
i chose not to call you anything because you are nothing to me.
You wrote surfing influences everything you do, I'm sorry I don't let something I do in my free time define every aspect of my life. That's being one dimensional.
Relax bud, no need for personal attacks cause my points have merit, just open dialogue here.
Don't care what you call me, you guys are the ones concerned with the ""surfer" label.
lmao,its so hilarious the **** people post on these things.its like reading the newspaper.its 100%bullshyt,but its entertaining.**** when i started surfing,a,there were no other surfers in the water,for like 5 years straight,b,the board me n my buddy were using was a 7,2 gun used for surfing hawaii,and we didnt have a leash.i didnt even know leashes existed.im not some dumass that watches 100 surf videos a day and trys talkin like a surfer.i tried surfing for 2 years before i finally got it.im talkin late january storms,rented wetsuits from lbi.i watched my buddy nearly die during a hurricane swell 5 years ago when he tried to catch a wave,the board came in,he didnt.it took him about 8 minutes to make it in.surfers dont hang out on threads.the only reason im on is a,its fukin hilarious lol,b i havent been to the beach in 3 years due to an injury and lack of transportation and money.now that iv been surfing the internet lol,i see this funny stuff i would have never even heard of 7 years ago.im no pro,and im no kook..call me out and You will be the one calling 911.the guy who made this thread probly lives in "the valley" for all u point break wannabees.i smoke dope,spray water in your face and ya wont do a damn thang!
This is the most ridiculous thread ive ever seen. Just because a person isn't an experienced surfer, means they have no right to go surf? Most begginners try and stay out of the more experienced surfers way and this is usually only a problem in the summer when the waves generally suck. All anybody does on this forum is complain about kooks and begginners. I mean another thread about someone *****en about kooks and crowds will definitely solve the problem. How about the more experienced surfers (which everyone on this forum is) help the begginners so that they can learn etiquette and stay out of people's way. Not for their sake but for years. And this cold water brotheren in New Jersey is complete bulls*it. What makes cold water surfers cool is how humble they are and the lack of boasting and b*tching about the water. I'm not a great surfer but i can't stand the arrogance of some people on this forum because this thread is called "Nobody owes you anything" which goes the same for everybody. Because since your a better surfer, means that person owes you every wave. This arrogance is ridiculous
well said.i wish there were other surfers to show me the way.iv been surfing nj ny for nearly 8 years and my surfing crew consists of 4 people.i always encourage people to go try surfing,its a spiritual thing.people have the right to be happy.yea i agree,some people should stick to softball,there are quite a few ppl who jsut dont get it.i dont mind a kook gettin in my way.i stick up for plenty of the underdogs,and when i see some guys giving someone a problem(like 5 guys talkin smack to 1 guy),no matter what the situation is,im going to step in and the problem starters are the ones leaving in an ambulance.i got a huge track record when it comes to splittin heads open and anyone around me will vouch on that.again,im a peaceful dude,but i hate to see others giving someone a hard time.dont do that **** with me in the water.i live in elizabeth nj,far from the beach,and ppl been bustin my balls driving around the hood with a surfboard on the roof,and il still do it.im not someone who grew up 5 minutes from the ocean,im not someone who can ask daddy for 200 bucks for a wetsuit.2 of my 3 brothers are doing major time in prison,i commute 70miles each way to work in lakewood,and i work 5 minutes from bayhead.i surf when i get the chance,im not someone at the beach everyday.only did that for 1 year when i was on unemployment.feel free to bash me all u want through the safety of your computer
Hey. I just got back to the office after taking a 'liquid lunch' catching a few in OCMD. I'm feeling no angst at all. Maybe you all ought to go out and catch a few--you sound like you reeeeeaaally need to.
did you float around on a tube and sip on a drink at secrets...secrets is my faveeeeeeeeeeeeee (homo voice)
WeeLee from VA BEE (maybe...?! 'cause he ain't what he claims to be) finally gets outed AND owned in the same set. Just goes to show that anyone who reads the mags & the blather that's online can post 'opinions' like he's th second coming of Andy irons - - but, WeeLee, you've been exposed, finally, as the troll that you be.
What will your keyboard fan club, like Pumpmaster & Epic do without the lil' engineer's spouting off? Come on, kid, go for 2,000 posts. You know it's what you live for.
it sure as heck ain't for me. i've devoted too many hours. my hearing. my eyesight. my knees. my shoulders.
i've been wracked with pain and run a fever for 3 days from sting ray sting. i've been stung by man o' war so bad that it left scars. i've surfed so much that my nipples BLED just cause i didn't have a rash guard and there were waves. i've broken bones. snapped boards. required surgery and months of rehab for injury. driven 6 hours in the middle of the night for a 2 foot swell cause i was exiled to the tech companies of austin. i've paid through the nose just to live near the beach. given up acreage and 2500 sq. ft. inland for a bread box on a decent break (well rented it out anyway). all that and i run a higher chance of getting cancer or hepatitis, just cause i surf. this is called "PAYING YOUR DUES." something no one wants to do anymore. i don't know anybody who's in their garage playing with toy trains, who's been bitten by a shark. ask my sister the nurse how the arthritis in her hand from that feels. they were lucky to be able to sew it back together. took 3 month before she was able to hold anything in it again. she still surfs every chance she gets and it was a BABY shark. ask my father-in-law how he liked having a couple of vertebrae in his neck fused together last month and how much he's itching to get back in the water, if he ever can again. he has nerve compression from paddling for 50 years, put off the surgery until he couldn't hardly move his right arm anymore because doctors would only give him a 50% chance of every being able to "have "an active lifestyle" (a.k.a. surf) again. it's not a "hard a$$ identity". to surf, you have to be tough. no BS. if you're not, this is not the "hobby" for you.
i cast my lot with the old guard. lee, earl, pumpmaster, all the hard liners; they're right. nobody owes you anything. the sea is 100% unforgiving and is trying to kill you. it is no one else's responsibility to help you in distress. unless they're paid to do it, it is an individual's personal choice to put themselves at risk to help others. or wear a leash or not snake your wave. that's what i like about it. nobody tells me what to do and respect must be earned. my earliest memories are of being in the water, i stood up on a surfboard in whitewash before i learned how to ride a bike. i competed on swim teams from the time i was 6 until I graduated HS at 16. i practically have gills, BUT the OCEAN still DEMANDS my respect, but that's the only thing out there that wasn't born with flippers, gills or tentacles and has big teeth or a nasty sting that does. i'm gonna help and be a nice guy 'cause it's makes me feel good about myself, but NOT because i have to, because i don't. if i paddle out to someplace i've never surfed or where i'm not a local, i respect the line-up and the regulars. why? because if you get too out of line, someone will check your @ss, that's life in the water. that's surfing, unless you are a really hot chick and there's only one of those for every 10 chicks who surf and there's only one chick for every 100 guys. or a little kid. but hot chicks and little kids live by different rules. they also stick to the nice safe tourist breaks, unless they're hard core and not just "hobbyists". people who climb mountains where there is no chance of SAR understand this mentality. the problem is that most surf breaks in the U.S. are frequented by toruists. suburban mom and pops that think that jr. should go out and try it, it looks like so much fun. they're not getting in the water themselves, but they're sure one of the nice older surfers will take care of him if he's in trouble. or it's some old dude having a mid-life crisis and instead of a miata he buys a surfboard. surfing kills people. it's not skiing (skiing kills too, but Sonny Bono is no great loss). you don't go to the beach like you go to Vail and buy too much crap and take some lessons and you're suddenly a surfer. there is only one guarantee that comes with surfing. it's gonna hurt. the next time you're about to paddle out, ask yourself, "if I have to get back to the beach broken and bleeding, on my own, can I?" i do, then i ask myself can i make it up the cliff trail too. AGAIN
MY FIRST EXPOSURE TO HOW SERIOUS SURFING COULD BE WAS A SARCOPHOGUS. when I was 5 and a half years old, we moved from Corpus to Guam. we stayed at a friend of a friend's house. the people who owned this beautiful house had moved away. i asked why, the friend of a friend, said, "did you see the big stone box out front?" "yes" "their son is in there. he died surfing right out front, the house reminded them of him so they moved back to California." the house was on a reef break and the teenager had grown up surfing in Cali. there aren't that many surfers in Guam. when we left Guam, that house was the last place we stayed too. we moved to Cali and that's where i went from catching some waves in the whitewash to BEING a surfer. there really is a difference. some will understand, some will not.
you talk about level of risk. here's the level of risk. if you surf there's a 100% chance that you will be injured. surfing has been commoditized since its adoption by main stream popular culture in the 1950's. its public image has been softened to the point that anybody thinks, "I can be a surfer." they're wrong. the majority of people in our society cannot handle the serious consequences of their actions. right now all the suckers who bought a certain IPO at 150 times revised earnings value are trying to sue whomever they can because they lost money. caveat emptor. there is only one guarantee in this life, you will lose it. can you handle that? maybe you can, but for the average john q. public, i don't think so. you talk of banning activity. you can't change human behavior through legislation. i offer the war on drugs as an example. there is no other breed of men on this planet, like those who do so called "adventure sports". these are the last of a dying breed, you can't control their behavior through legislation. remember a drug test is not testing for drugs, it is testing your intelligence. there are laws compelling or banning all sorts of behavior. EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM IS BEING BROKEN. the idea of legislating or banning surfers' behavior is ludicrous. go heard cats instead. most of the people i see "surfing" can't even duck dive, let alone surf a wave. the concept of being a waterman and the skill set that goes with that, will never be attained by the majority of people who get in the water.
if this thread strikes a dissonant chord with you i'm sorry, i suggest you surf near the life guard tower. there aren't any of those were i surf, the cliff is too damn steep and the narrow spit of a beach ain't wide enough. There are still plenty of barnies though. Some of them will one day be surfers.
See you on the reef in 6 hours. PEACE
SURFING SUCKS - DON'T TRY IT.
so it seems like about 10 of us on here have the same idea...
and yankee, stfu. you're a waste of internet space.