i'm sure you could find someone to share a bottle merlot with after a session. Hell, you might even be able to find someone to spoon with you on the beach while listening to john mayer during sunset. Who knows, you might get a chance to have a surfboard (or other things put up your ass). Best of luck to you finding a life partner.
Danke schön, funny thing is, Leary didn't surf. During the same interview he said something else that I found very interesting which has profoundly affected my surfing, to paraphrase, that surfers are reactive to what's happening at the moment without thinking, which according to him, is very high state of conciousness. He believed that ultimately they should strive to proactively effect the moment, so that rather than reacting to it, they are in fact shaping it. I found that when I stopped taking a passive role in reaction to the wave and just riding it and instead began visualizing how I wanted to ride it, my surfing dramatically changed.
Either that or I've fried my brain to Krispy Kritters.
Last edited by zaGaffer; Jun 13, 2012 at 08:05 PM.
If he didn't surf and still thought that, then I think we're really on to something!
so the dude surfing chopes is in a higher state of conciousness than me at my local jetty? i'm cool with that.. maybe the closer to death you are, the better the time you're having?? we could ask nathan fletcher.. that code red **** was nutso..
I feel like those things are kind of contradictory, because doesn't total absorption in the moment have to be free of thought? (and/or planning)
And isn't progress inevitable? ..I think I have gotten a little bit better almost every session for the last 20 years.
so y'know, basically just, uh.. kritters, newbies, merlot and butt lovin.. ok then..
...surfers are reactive to what's happening at the moment without thinking, which according to him, is very high state of conciousness.
I mentioned this before... I call that a "Zen Moment." It doesn't happen every wave, or even every session. But occasionally I'll get a wave, and paddling back out, can't remember what just happened. That's perfection. That's what I chase every time I go for a surf.