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  1. #11
    If he didn't surf and still thought that, then I think we're really on to something!

    so the dude surfing chopes is in a higher state of conciousness than me at my local jetty? i'm cool with that.. maybe the closer to death you are, the better the time you're having?? we could ask nathan fletcher.. that code red **** was nutso..

    I feel like those things are kind of contradictory, because doesn't total absorption in the moment have to be free of thought? (and/or planning)
    And isn't progress inevitable? ..I think I have gotten a little bit better almost every session for the last 20 years.

    so y'know, basically just, uh.. kritters, newbies, merlot and butt lovin.. ok then..

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Monmouth Beach, NJ
    Posts
    3,975
    Quote Originally Posted by zaGaffer View Post
    ...surfers are reactive to what's happening at the moment without thinking, which according to him, is very high state of conciousness.
    I mentioned this before... I call that a "Zen Moment." It doesn't happen every wave, or even every session. But occasionally I'll get a wave, and paddling back out, can't remember what just happened. That's perfection. That's what I chase every time I go for a surf.