thanks for all the info guys! yeah i guess i will try to get a bit better then take a trip somewhere. also i will try to go to holden when the wind is from the north and the swell is from the east. i tried to paddle out during a tropical storm, because of how nice the waves look then i realized there was no way i could get my longboard out there since i couldnt duck dive. no matter how hard i paddled i got knocked back. then i realized if i keep trying and actually do get out im too tired to swim back if anything goes wrong. i can catch basically every wave i try for with my longboard and i can turn and walk to the nose. so im thinking im ready for a shorter board so i can duck dive. would a fish or a shortboard be my better bet? also im kind of big ( 6' and 205 lbs) so is there a big guys short board or fish that is good for like knee high to head high waves?
ocean city, maryland shoals right after a monster storm. world class left..... if you got a way of getting out to it
Yeah, someone posted a quick video of it a few winters ago... It was of a couple guys paddling into the big lefts. It wasnt very long at the time, but nice big 10-12 foot faces into a nice deep pocket on the side to pop out into.... That is the only recent video/photo ive seen of it in like 15 years
Im sure someone has asked this question before, but i did a search and didnt see one. anyway ive been surfing for two years now and i would like to start learning how to do more than just go left or right with the wave. however it seems that the instant you get up and drop in and get turned one way, you have about three to five seconds before the whole dang wave is over. i normally surf holden beach or folly beach. im just wondering where the longest waves in the south east are? basically any where from wilmington down to florida. if anyone could give me some help on this i would appreciate it very much.
WTH is wrong with 3-5 seconds if your getting pitted silly??? Think pocket rocket baby and you will find the true beauty of east coast surfing. Screw the man made objects, those are usually overcrowded and chock full of a mixture of 'local authority', stand up paddle boarders, and braces wearing punk kids who like to say the word 'kook' a lot even though they get outsurfed every time. Unfortunately for you being in that part of the country the hollow days are few and far between. If your serious, I would invest in the following:
Honda civic 5 speed w/ hard rack
weekly gas allowance
a buddy that can surf (dont come north without one)
a watchful eye for offshore systems
wetsuit (3/2 & 4/3), hoodie, boots, gloves
Holden Beach rivermouth, Hurricane Earl. It was like a clone of Mundaka. The rivermouth sandbar made for grinding overhead barrels. You could get shacked for 15+ seconds given the leg strength. The pic posted of holden earlier in this thread is from the pier which is further down from the rivermouth. Those waves were about 1/4 of the length than those at the rivermouth. I paddled for about an hour to get to the lineup. Absolutely best wave ive seen on the east coast. It wasnt a factor of "the wave is over" it was a factor of "i just got shacked silly and my legs hurt so i might was well get off this wave and start paddling."
There's also awesome waves to find along the coast of SC, its just tough to access them. You really need a boat if you wanna get to the awesome secret spots. I live in Columbia (for school) and will travel around the carolinas and into florida to chase a good swell.