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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Massapequa, New York
    Posts
    95

    What surfing means to me . . .

    So, I'm going to preface this with the following: If you dislike sentimentality or think people shouldn't ever show their feelings, get out. I don't mean to be harsh, but I just anticipate—because so many people on this site are assholes—that people will try to come in and tell me how much of a ***** I'm being or whatever. I don't care. I wanted to share how I feel about surfing with people who might appreciate it.

    I also want to know if anybody else feels the same way and I want to hear your stories, so please post them.

    Anyway, surfing for me has really been an important part of my life. Now I'm not saying I live in a hut on the beach and don't work and surf every single day. I'm not saying that. But it's been important for me, and here's why:

    Surfing was a family thing for me. My mom and dad both surfed back in the late 60s and early 70s. Since I was born, every moment of free time my family could squander was spent in salt water—fishing, sailing, boating, and surfing. Some of my earliest memories are of my dad anchoring up in a cove on our sailboat and throwing a board overboard for me to paddle around on.

    My dad taught me how to surf from the beginning, paddling around coves, pushing me into foam on the inside on a soft-top right up until I was surfing right there with him. I've had amazing experiences with him, like surfing right amongst a giant school of cow rays that surprisingly made an appearance this far north a few summers ago. It's one of the best feelings to pop up on a great wave and realize that your dad's right there next to you and high five him as you trim up right next to him. I've had the time of my life surfing with my dad and I know that I'll carry that with me for life, long after he's gone and I can only hope that one day I'll have a kid to share the same passion with. It's a memory thing for me. Nobody will ever be able to take away those memories of great waves and high fives and hugs and family. I have the waves to thank for that . . .

    Being out in the ocean just clears things up for me. I get out there and any heartache or problems just seem to become so much less important. Sometimes I'll just be completely down and wonder if life is even worth living but then I'll get out there and realize how much I love life, and the memories surfing triggers makes me remember how much people love me and it makes it all better.

    I know I probably sound like a complete ***** right now, but I don't really care. Surfing's just helped me so much in my life and I don't really think most people who aren't surfers understand it.

    Does anybody else here feel the same way I do, or am I alone in feeling this way? I really do want to hear how surfing has impacted other people's lives.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Sloop John B. View Post
    So, I'm going to preface this with the following: If you dislike sentimentality or think people shouldn't ever show their feelings, get out. I don't mean to be harsh, but I just anticipate—because so many people on this site are assholes—that people will try to come in and tell me how much of a ***** I'm being or whatever. I don't care. I wanted to share how I feel about surfing with people who might appreciate it.

    I also want to know if anybody else feels the same way and I want to hear your stories, so please post them.

    Anyway, surfing for me has really been an important part of my life. Now I'm not saying I live in a hut on the beach and don't work and surf every single day. I'm not saying that. But it's been important for me, and here's why:

    Surfing was a family thing for me. My mom and dad both surfed back in the late 60s and early 70s. Since I was born, every moment of free time my family could squander was spent in salt water—fishing, sailing, boating, and surfing. Some of my earliest memories are of my dad anchoring up in a cove on our sailboat and throwing a board overboard for me to paddle around on.

    My dad taught me how to surf from the beginning, paddling around coves, pushing me into foam on the inside on a soft-top right up until I was surfing right there with him. I've had amazing experiences with him, like surfing right amongst a giant school of cow rays that surprisingly made an appearance this far north a few summers ago. It's one of the best feelings to pop up on a great wave and realize that your dad's right there next to you and high five him as you trim up right next to him. I've had the time of my life surfing with my dad and I know that I'll carry that with me for life, long after he's gone and I can only hope that one day I'll have a kid to share the same passion with. It's a memory thing for me. Nobody will ever be able to take away those memories of great waves and high fives and hugs and family. I have the waves to thank for that . . .

    Being out in the ocean just clears things up for me. I get out there and any heartache or problems just seem to become so much less important. Sometimes I'll just be completely down and wonder if life is even worth living but then I'll get out there and realize how much I love life, and the memories surfing triggers makes me remember how much people love me and it makes it all better.

    I know I probably sound like a complete ***** right now, but I don't really care. Surfing's just helped me so much in my life and I don't really think most people who aren't surfers understand it.

    Does anybody else here feel the same way I do, or am I alone in feeling this way? I really do want to hear how surfing has impacted other people's lives.
    SJB is that you?

  3. #3
    I would say that pretty much sums it up. I mean I am a body boarder but I have the same feeling. The sounds you hear when you first drop in on the wave.. It's a great thing, it's enjoyment at it's best.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Massapequa, New York
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by surfsolo View Post
    SJB is that you?
    What do you mean is that me?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Long Island
    Posts
    35
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    2
    My mind is like a bad neighborhood. I get mugged every time I go in there.
    Surfing is liquid medication...

    Yea man, sometimes I feel like surfing is the only thing I have left. Without it I'd self destruct for sure. I've found that surfing and climbing help to slow down time. Every half of a second matters. Above all, surfing helps create the context to think about my thinking in a more meaningful way as my thoughts are more positive than they would be otherwise.

  6. #6
    SJB... I never reply to these threads but you struck a nerve. I have been around the water for all of my 41 years. Surfed, fished, bodyboard and piss bombs in the sand when their was no surf. I took a hiatus for about 20 years in the surf but this year surfed through the winter (shortboard not longboard) and was born again. My aunt from Santa Monica and devoted Catholic told me about her tenant whom she tried to convert. He said, "Every time I paddle out, I go to church." I am now a member of the Church of Phil. I have been on both sides of the law and always had the surf. It never judges. Cheers.

  7. #7
    I enjoyed reading your post SJB. My journey with the ocean began nearly 40 years ago surf fishing with my grandfather and fishing off the rocks. I'd tire of fishing and the tangled or snagged lines so I'd bodysurf. Eventually as a teenager, I bought a boogie board because I didn't have enough for a surfboard. I had conjured an ideal of a surf lifestyle largely influenced by the Beach Boys and felt as if if was living it everytime I entered the ocean.
    The transition to surfing has been more of an odyssey for me away from a canned archetype. Realizing I wasn't getting any younger, I decided to finally buy a board in my late 30's and learn. What I discovered was life. this pursuit of skill and understanding and the Spirit of Aloha is worth passing to my kids and has developed into a passion that keeps me balanced. According to legendary surfer Doc Paskowitz, in his book Surfing and Helath, one of the 5 pillars of health is recreation. Recreation is re-creation. Everytime I go, I am new.

  8. #8
    Cheers and bravo to this thread. Growing up in Pennsylvania, I played ice hockey and a LOT of it too. At age 18 got my real first taste of surfing. Around 22, I had turned the page on hockey and began living and working around the water and have since been completely immersed in surfing and the ocean. It's changed my life. I am truly blessed and thankful for all the friends and memories that I have now.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Long Buried Island
    Posts
    786
    This post should have "the wind beneath my wings" song being played while reading it...ha!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    553
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    3
    Started surfing at 6 or 7 on my older brothers 7 foot single fin o'Neil. Took a break for about ten years after highschool. Started back about 5 years ago. Am 35 now and do it as often as I can. Love it. Like being a kid again. I am on a 7 foot triple fin now. Funny how things come full circle. Nice thread!

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