No, I like to surf. It's very fun and I have no worries whilst doing it
No, I like to surf. It's very fun and I have no worries whilst doing it
Rachel Carson begins her book The Edge of the Sea “Like the sea itself, the shore fascinates us who return to it,” That’s where we came from and some of us feel a sense of belonging in Her presence. I remember my mother saying that even when I was a toddler if I was near water, I was in it. I fish, kayak, windsurf, even stood up on a surfboard once. Water has been my profession for some 30 years, as a hydrogeologist, and my salvation all my life.
From fishing for brookies in mountain streams to riding waves on various contraptions in the ocean, my life has centered around being on or near water and doing what I have to do to get back on the water.
AND I make $500,000 a year, own 2 beach houses without furniture, am better than just about everyone else, would never consider wearing a leash, don’t owe nobody nothing, hate bennies, Guido’s, everyone from NY (include all ethnic groups), and do not want to pay any taxes but receive all the public services I want!
Sometimes we all feel the need to get sentimental.
Alright John Boy.....I'll bite.....here's my soul on the table.
Let's start by saying, I am an actual vaginal american.....I'm a girl.
In February 2011, I was sold a dream by a surfer boy. I don't know why he sold the dream to me, I was already giving him some......but anywho, I was told "I want to teach you to surf and sail." "Let's go kiteboarding" and things of that nature. Boy (Eddie) said, I'm leaving for 3 weeks, but when I get back we are going to do these things. Boy stopped calling.....matter of fact boy (who I was friends with for 4 years prior) never called again. It took weeks to confirm, but no he's not dead. I don't know why he chose to disappear WITHOUT A WORD and it broke my heart.....I didn't see it coming. But eff 'em.....I was sold a dream and I didn't need him to make it come true.
So March 18th, 2011 I was pushed into my first white water by another boy, whom will have my respect for life...and though I had no success I found myself stoked.....I wasn't expecting it. I spent the next 3 days in a row in the ocean, simply learning to survive. On the 3rd day, I tried to paddle out in what I now know to be awful conditions...at the time I was too green to know any better. As I tried my best to get out in 3-4 foot sea, at 5 seconds, with strong on shore winds something happened. My broken heart realized that Eddie didn't matter....actually I realized that nothing but what I was doing mattered. There was nothing but me, the waves, the wind, and the board. If I wanted, I had to do it. No one can give it to you, no one can take it from you. You can't buy it....you can't sell it. And all of a sudden I wanted it more than anything I had ever desired before. I raised my fist to the heavens and scream "FUK Eddie!" It was all LT Dan style.
I never made it out that day, actually I don't think I made it 40 feet off the shore that day, but something had changed.....inside I was different. I got in the water feeling broken by someone else, I got out more complete in myself than I had even been....I dare say I was reborn. This is a picture of that moment.....188588_10150120438039652_676984651_6623374_3633461_n.jpg
I've tried to explain it to others but words fail me.....
This is the best I have managed to describe it so far......A lot of people surf for sport, but I’m not good enough to call it sport. To me it’s more of a spiritual experience. Anything that involves one ass kicking after another interrupted by perfect moments of grace, feels more like a religious experience than a hobby or sport. But a 1000 wipe outs is worth it all in that spilt second when everything comes together; when somehow some way I did just the right thing at the right time and I find myself riding down the line...and though it’s just for a moment, for that moment nothing else matters.
And just an FYI, it's been a year and 3 months now.....I moved from inland to the beach, I have spent hundreds if not a thousand hours in the water since. I've wiped-out and eaten shyt thousands if not tens of thousand of time since.....but now I found myself dialed in. I've become more than a girl with a broken heart, more than just a surfer, I am now a more complete me.....and even if I wanted to, I could never go back.
Stupid no rendering htmlHTML Code:<table> <tr> <td colspan="5"> StartDate </td> <td colspan="5"> EndDate </td> <td colspan="5"> TotalHours </td> <td colspan="5"> TotalDays </td> <td colspan="5"> SleepyTime </td> <td colspan="5"> WorkWorkWork </td> <td colspan="5"> HoursLeftInTheDay2Surf </td> <td colspan="5"> HoursPerDayToReach1000 </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5"> 2011-03-20 00:00:00.000 </td> <td colspan="5"> 2012-06-20 23:59:59.000 </td> <td colspan="5"> 11015 </td> <td colspan="5"> 458 </td> <td colspan="5"> 3664 </td> <td colspan="5"> 3664 </td> <td colspan="5"> 3664 </td> <td colspan="5"> 2.18340611 </td> </tr> </table>
Last edited by zaGaffer; Jun 21, 2012 at 12:02 AM.
Thanks guys (and girls). I'm really happy to know that people feel the same way that I do about the water. And thanks again for not getting on my case about the sentimentality issue.
Hope everyone's had a great international surfing day.
AND I make $500,000 a year, own 2 beach houses without furniture, am better than just about everyone else, would never consider wearing a leash, don’t owe nobody nothing, hate bennies, Guido’s, everyone from NY (include all ethnic groups), and do not want to pay any taxes but receive all the public services I want![/QUOTE]
A true patriot!!
I usually just read this crap after checking the report but I thought I would contribute.
Surfing for me:
The best way to start the day. Surfing is my therapist. My best friend. My lover. My arch nemesis. The only thing that i'm getting out of my warm bed for at 530am. The reason that I have zero sick or vacation time on the books. The reason that my passport is full of stamps. I live in flip flops and man tanks. I have 7 or 8 surfboards and still fiend for more. I'll probably get skin cancer and/or attacked by a shark but I don't care. I surf in the winter and my beard freezes. Sometimes I have to sit in my car and wait out the frost bite so that I can feel the pedals and drive home. I have based my life around this damn hobby and I have not a single regret. Even if stuck on this pitiful coast, I'll get waves until I'm in the ground.
i live in aloha shirts and flipflops, even at work. i surf all year round and a vacation spot requires a break, even a crappy one. i only get up prior to 1030 am for this (and anyone who knows me is shocked when they find out i am on the beach at 8 am after a 1-1.5 hour drive). i've dragged many non-surfers into the water to learn, even just to sponge...my kids, friends, "friends," my kids' friends...to feel the pull, the pickup when the wave takes over and the ride begins (yeah, i'm that guy too, momma...but not your guy). i've had 2 cancerous lesions removed from my face and too many to count from my back. i hate being cold and i can't see for sh!t. i wear glasses and a hat and a wetsuit when everyone is in shorts... but i am out there. any time i can. i will never be great, but it's not about me being better than YOU...it's about me being better than i was, one wave, one fall, one small triumph at a time.
Last edited by spongedude; Jun 21, 2012 at 11:54 PM.