i live in aloha shirts and flipflops, even at work. i surf all year round and a vacation spot requires a break, even a crappy one. i only get up prior to 1030 am for this (and anyone who knows me is shocked when they find out i am on the beach at 8 am after a 1-1.5 hour drive). i've dragged many non-surfers into the water to learn, even just to sponge...my kids, friends, "friends," my kids' friends...to feel the pull, the pickup when the wave takes over and the ride begins (yeah, i'm that guy too, momma...but not your guy). i've had 2 cancerous lesions removed from my face and too many to count from my back. i hate being cold and i can't see for sh!t. i wear glasses and a hat and a wetsuit when everyone is in shorts... but i am out there. any time i can. i will never be great, but it's not about me being better than YOU...it's about me being better than i was, one wave, one fall, one small triumph at a time.
Your last sentence gave me chill bumps......deep and well said my friend.....I feel you from the inside out. Mad respect!