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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    BELMAR, NJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by idsmashh View Post
    I have no doubt that the ding is water tight now and it will ride just fine. I can deal with ugly.
    Hey Bro- remember that 85% of ding repair is sanding... I have no clue what your ding repair is looking like, but sanding can either make or break the repair.... maybe its the color that your not liking tho?

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    405
    Quote Originally Posted by walkingonh2o View Post
    Hey Bro- remember that 85% of ding repair is sanding... I have no clue what your ding repair is looking like, but sanding can either make or break the repair.... maybe its the color that your not liking tho?
    Yea, I've only been using 60 grit and 120 grit. I'm gonna go to Lowes and widen my selection a bit tommorrow. The reason I don't like it is cause I was impatient. Instead of waiting untill I had time to go pick up some q-cell to do the repair I went ahead and filled it in with just straight resin. Its water tight, but the resin is clear so you can clearly still see the ding. It's just laminated. I also plan on swinging by West Marine tommorow and picking up some white epoxy dye for the hotcoat. I'm hoping that helps.

    Another thing I don't like is that I did not use masking tape so the repair is not squared off and is taking up more space then it needs to (other thing that I plan on picking up tommorrow). Any more insight or tips would be awesome here guys?? I've posted this same thread on a few other surf forums and am really liking the feedback from everyone. I'm no good at this stuff, but Im trying to get better with your help!!!
    Last edited by idsmashh; Jun 25, 2012 at 02:21 AM.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Monmouth Beach, NJ
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    2,295
    West Marine has pigment... and a little goes a long way. If you use too much, you'll end up with a rubbery hotcoat that won't ever get hard enough to sand properly. If you use too little, you'll see the discoloration right through it. You want it to match the color of the surrounding area. So... mix your resin and hardener by the appropriate ratio, then add a TINY bit of pigment. Mix well, paint on a THIN layer, and see what it looks like. If it looks too white, you added too much pigment and you need to start over. If it matches, you're good. If it's not opaque enough to mask enough of the discoloration, wipe it off, add another TINY amount of pigment, and test it again. Test it out and keep going until you're happy with the result. But remember, you're going to be sanding most of it off. The purpose of the hotcoat is to fill the weave of the lamination, and give you something to fair out ("feather") into the surrounding area.

    Mistakes are not always a bad thing. But even YOU should be able to distinguish between a mistake and a STUPID mistake. Stupid mistakes are things like not reading the label of a product, not following directions, not following advice from somebody who knows... you know, stuff like that.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    BELMAR, NJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by idsmashh View Post
    Another thing I don't like is that I did not use masking tape so the repair is not squared off and is taking up more space then it needs
    totally forgot- masking out the area really helps! lol but note that you can 'chip' off any resin that got splattered/or ran onto any part of your board that was not pre-sanded. any resin /epoxy that is on your original glass job, that you didn't sand the surface before hand, you can chip it off with a knife or something.
    Also, from experience, like someone else mentioned... if you use qcell it will probably end up being ultra white compared to your board... sometimes I like the look of the clear epoxy over qcell. qcell only really helps with weight issues- and more of a paste to work with.
    Last edited by walkingonh2o; Jun 25, 2012 at 01:53 PM.