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  1. #1

    summer longboarding sessions

    New to longboarding. I have been riding short boards for over a decade. I know, I know, I did it wrong.

    I'm one week in and having a blast on it. I am already walking on it and being a wave hog (sorry). Catching absolute ripples all the way in to the sand while the kids float around on their potato chips. I will admit that I have hated on longboarders my entire surfing life, so here it is, I was wrong.

    It's d*mn fun. I think I might start exclusively riding it this year. I do have some questions for ya tough...

    My only issue of duck diving. I miss that. WTF do you guys do to get through the sets?

    When I get much further than a foot from the nose I lose all momentum. I want to hang 10 bra!!! It's a 9'4 cali noserider and I'm like 180lbs. Is it time for a diet?

    Do you guys wear leashes on logs? I don't use them on short boards but I can see even more reason not to with the whole walking thing.

    How big is too big for a nose rider? head high? head and a half? Or is it an issue of da coconuts?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Glad you're enjoying the log. I normally walk my longboard out, rather than trying to duck dive. Grab the tail and push your board over the waves. If you are in big surf, flip your board over and hang on underneath.

    Lose the leash - it gets in the way when cross-stepping. I surfed my 9'0" during the hurricane last summer and I had a blast. Side bites certainly help out in larger surf; however, you will be able to manage if you only have a center fin. Just stay back when locking in the line.

  3. #3
    hey thanks man. Didn't really consider just walking it out there haha. better not try that on the reefs but in Wb why not!?!

    Careful though, people on this forum get all panties-in-a-bunch about surfing without a leash... But I agree, tried it one day and got all kinds of tied up in it, not to mention it was only 7' long... the board is 9'4... so....

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Congrads on trying new things....and furthermore for discovering the bliss of longboarding.

    Now duck diving is subjective with a longboard. First and foremost, I watch for the sets rolling in and try to "make my break" between sets. I get out as far as I can while standing or just before the sandbar, whichever is first, and I wait for down time between the sets.....then paddle like I might be crushed if I don't move fast enough.

    Also you can use a semi-duck dive. If you find yourself with white water coming for you, push the nose down with the side rails while lifting your upper body off the board and let the wave go between your body and the board.

    Then there is also the "O' shyt!" method, this is when you see the wave (looking huge) is going to break ON YOU, IN YOU, THROUGH YOU.....in this situation you bail off the board and swim for the bottom, letting your leash hold the board for you. If you don't have the liberty to let your board go, or the situation is somewhere between "O' no" and "O' shyt!", you can bail off the board but grab the leash close to the tail (board nose facing beach) and pull the tail down underwater with you, this will cause the wave to roll over you and the board.

    On the leash front.....it depends on the day. If it's small (1-2.5 feet) and clean, I go leashless. If it's bigger I use a leash....if for no other reason than to help me get the board out. Also you can wear your leash on your calf, just below the knee.....this helps keep it out of your way for walking.

    About getting on the nose.....I'm 5'10 and 155lbs, my nose rider is 9'6......in order to get my toes to the nose, I
    have to arch my body weight back as far as possible. I have hung the 5, but still haven't made it to 10.

    I'm not sure how big is too big for a longboard.....but I'm thinking it's all they use to have, so it's up to your coconuts. I personally have take a 9'6 nose rider out in overhead conditions....I'm a newbie chic....it works just fine if you know what your doing.....I didn't, but luck saved me and I still had fun...actually that day was the most epic wipe out I'd ever had, it actually stoked me. Anyway, I guess the best I can tell you is to MAKE SURE, on a big wave, that the nose stays in the air....Longboard + Flat On Face Of Big Wave = Coconut Beating

    Hope that helps.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by purpleheadedyogurtslinger View Post
    hey thanks man. Didn't really consider just walking it out there haha. better not try that on the reefs but in Wb why not!?!

    Careful though, people on this forum get all panties-in-a-bunch about surfing without a leash... But I agree, tried it one day and got all kinds of tied up in it, not to mention it was only 7' long... the board is 9'4... so....
    Dude.....dah! 9'4 board means you need a leash at least 9'4 leash. Wearing a 7' leash on a 9'4 board is very dangerous to YOU! I'm not going to get into the whole leash or no leash thing.....but if using a leash, it REALLY NEEDS to be the right length.

  6. #6
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    Yeah, ditch the leash or get one that's a foot longer than your board. I rode a 9'1.75" x 22 1/2" x 3" all day yesterday (Friday and Saturday I rode short boards), don't ask me about the wacky dimensions, they just are. I ride regular, but switch foot on it all the time, I just cross over the leash. Don't ask me how, just always done it, 9 times out of ten I don't need the darn thing, but it is nice not to have swim after my board on that tenth time.

    Duck Diving the Long Board! Can it be done? The answer is yes; but it's tricky and takes a lot more effort than a short board. It's all just a question of leverage and mechanics. You can either just muscle it under by putting all your weight forward towards the nose and then kick down the tail with a knee or foot under the wave; or you tilt the board at an angle, like a knife blade and slice it into the water at kind of a 45 degree angle. Now the board is under the laminar of the water surface, bow down; level the board back out with a little corkscrew maneuver and then push down the tail with a knee or a foot. Piece of cake. I'm also 6'2" and weigh in at an even 200lbs., which probably helps.

    Here's a much better explanation http://www.surfline.com/community/wh...ws.cfm?id=1036

    I've taken some logs into some overhead (California) surf, just cause I can get through the break easily enough. Of course, then you really gotta get 'em movin' quick down the face. Sometimes you git the b'ar and sometimes the b'ar gits you.
    Last edited by zaGaffer; Jun 25, 2012 at 03:29 PM.

  7. #7
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    I have an unusual way of getting my board out to the lineup. I am a big guy so what I do is hold the nose of the board under my arm kind of like I'm trying to carry a football And pull it under the wave or whitewater. It works well for me because I weigh around 215. I can also slide down to the nose and just sit there balled up and punch through. In order to get some speed I paddle and kick my legs.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by purpleheadedyogurtslinger View Post
    hey thanks man. Didn't really consider just walking it out there haha. better not try that on the reefs but in Wb why not!?!

    Careful though, people on this forum get all panties-in-a-bunch about surfing without a leash... But I agree, tried it one day and got all kinds of tied up in it, not to mention it was only 7' long... the board is 9'4... so....
    Yea man, you're going to need a longer leash if you are going to chain yourself to your board. I wear a 10' leash on larger days, regardless of log size (9', 9'6", 9'10"). 10' give you some slack, becuase the last thing you want is a log coiling back to your face. Check out Creatures' DNA leash. Worth the rage for longboard leashes.

  9. #9
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    My only issue of duck diving. I miss that. WTF do you guys do to get through the sets?
    you can paddle a lot faster on a log so you'll find it easier to make it over the crest. Its almost like a mental thing. If I know I can duck dive, I am happy to duck dive, if I know thats not an option, I paddle harder if whitewater is coming to you then either turtle or what I do is grab the nose, get that under the wave, as long as you don't lose your grasp you'll be fine. Apply a little bit of wax on the rails up by the nose to help that

  10. #10
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    Then there is also the "O' shyt!" method, this is when you see the wave (looking huge) is going to break ON YOU, IN YOU, THROUGH YOU.....in this situation you bail off the board and swim for the bottom, letting your leash hold the board for you.
    SUPER dangerous practice and NOT recommended.