Agree. This is perhaps the stupidest thing to do for two reasons. One anyone behind or near you could get a board in the face because you were trying to save yourself and two a large enough wave can break a leash free from a board. (This happened to me after being knocked of my board by a large wave coming and not being able to get back on before the next wave came battering down) You may find yourself way out without a board in head plus sets. Personally its not a great feeling especially if you arms are spent from trying to paddle through head high sets to get past the break. Not to mention the leash cut through the tail of my board so I had to pay for the repair as well as be without my board for a week and a half. Duck diving is the way to go. If you get caught in the wrong place just hold on tight.
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Thread: summer longboarding sessions