Agree. This is perhaps the stupidest thing to do for two reasons. One anyone behind or near you could get a board in the face because you were trying to save yourself and two a large enough wave can break a leash free from a board. (This happened to me after being knocked of my board by a large wave coming and not being able to get back on before the next wave came battering down) You may find yourself way out without a board in head plus sets. Personally its not a great feeling especially if you arms are spent from trying to paddle through head high sets to get past the break. Not to mention the leash cut through the tail of my board so I had to pay for the repair as well as be without my board for a week and a half. Duck diving is the way to go. If you get caught in the wrong place just hold on tight.
Dangerous for who? The rest of the statement, if shown in full, indicates that others are not near. I was told this practice by a few instructors....most of them life long surfers. So how is it dangerous for me? I'm not being a smart ass here, typing has no tone....I ask to make sure I am not putting myself at risk.
And brother with the leash breaking your board.....that's typically caused by your string being too long.
As much as possible, you should never ever bail. Even when you think you are alone, just for the purpose of it not becoming a habit. Also, it's difficult to know whether someone is paddling behind you. Someone could have been on a wave and paddling back out right after you, and it's such a dangerous practice to just let the board go when a big enough set passes. Such a scary moment when facing a wall of rushing whitewater with a loose board coming right for you.
I rarely ever bail... but will admit had to a few times... One time got hit by the board and got stitches, and the last time I did (with no one around me), I broke my board in two. So it's dangerous to you, others, and your board.
hey hey give mamma a break. She is just trying to help. I am curious about trying her "half duck dive" method because I'm usually on the log when the waves are small.
The leash being too short.. yeah, I knew it wouldn't work out well but it was saturday and there were about 20 cops patrolling the beach enforcing the open container (and possibly leash) laws. I'll probably pick up a 10 footer for the next similar occasion. That DID suck.