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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    MB 07750
    Posts
    407
    So how is it dangerous for me? I'm not being a smart ass here, typing has no tone....I ask to make sure I am not putting myself at risk.
    always hold on to your board. You don't need to ask for any more details or clarification, its just one of those rules of surfing. Eventually you'll figure out for yourself why its so important, beyond just not spearing the guy behind or next to you

  2. #32
    Ill take a pounding before I'll let my board looseout of others safety. However ive been pounded hard and have the board ripped out of my hands. In most instances white water I let rush between me and the board. I also mad dash to get over or thru the wave but if it's gonna pound on top of my head I go for the thunder down under and hold tight.

  3. #33

    2 things that will help

    Calf leash and turning turtle.

  4. #34
    thanks all. I went out again last night on the log in some 1-2 occasional waist high surf. Don't you just love that time of night that the wave faces start to change colors? One is all pink, the next is orange, then purple. The last 5 or 10 minutes of daylight.

    Anyways, didn't bother with a leash. I got like 100 waves and was all over the nose. Aside from duck diving, the learning curve is over. I still can't get that thing under water... After one of you said it was possible I was determined. Nope. I grab the rails and push with all of my might. Don't get me wrong, I can get under anything on my short boards, but this thing is just huge (that's what she said). Getting really far back and just letting the bow ride up and over the white wash seems to be working, but I havn't been stuck inside in anything serious yet on the log.
    Last edited by purpleheadedyogurtslinger; Jun 27, 2012 at 01:50 PM. Reason: added a that's what she said

  5. #35
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    St. Augustine, FL
    Posts
    291
    Images
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by fallingsky View Post
    Ill take a pounding before I'll let my board looseout of others safety. However ive been pounded hard and have the board ripped out of my hands. In most instances white water I let rush between me and the board. I also mad dash to get over or thru the wave but if it's gonna pound on top of my head I go for the thunder down under and hold tight.
    Well at least someone thought "Thunder Down Under" was funny. LOL

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Berlin MD
    Posts
    628
    Quote Originally Posted by dave View Post
    always hold on to your board. You don't need to ask for any more details or clarification, its just one of those rules of surfing. Eventually you'll figure out for yourself why its so important, beyond just not spearing the guy behind or next to you
    Exactly. So many reasons to maintain control. It may be easier to ditch and avoid the pounding , but eventually when you surf in enough situations you realize its a pretty bad habit to take the easy route.
    Last edited by scotty; Jun 28, 2012 at 12:06 AM.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    St. Augustine, FL
    Posts
    291
    Images
    15
    You know, I never said ditch your board every chance you get. I only said if the wave is looking huge like it's gonna hurt you (paraphrased) dive deep....without your board. Ditching your board is obviously a "only if you HAVE to" thing....it's not going to help you get out if you keep ditching it.....and it's never okay if you are around others. If you look, you will see pictures of my board out of control, in the air.....AND NO ONE IN SIGHT! Half the time I surf by myself....and I mean by myself.

    Now I shall tuck tail and run.....pretty sure 20 more people are going to see this as a new chance to harp on the same subject.

    Sure is a lot of nagging for a place full of men.

    PS I love SJB!

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Long Beach, NY
    Posts
    36
    hey man the key to a proper turtle is easy. you need to roll when the whitewater is about 5 yards away. once upside down and underwater. PULL the nose down, (your body should act as an anchor) hold the rails about a foot from the nose and make sure it is lower underwater then the rest of your board, as the wave passes over the tail it will pull you and the nose up. finish the roll and paddle out. dont be that guy turtle-ing in waist high waves either, only head high or bigger. get some old films and watch how they handled their logs. i could give you a bunch of different ways to getting out on bigger days, walk-overs, spring-overs are just a couple. there is a time and place for each one. you'll figure it out.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Massapequa, New York
    Posts
    92
    Quote Originally Posted by yourdirtymomma View Post
    PS I love SJB!
    I never know anymore when people use those initials if they're talking about me or that southjettybill character.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Inland, near DC
    Posts
    375
    How big can you go with a Longboard? That depends on loads of factors like the shape of the wave, the shape of the board, and the skill level of the surfer. You could really get yourself into a lot of trouble with ~10 of foam and glass, especially if it is a vintage noserider (flatter rocker) and the surf is jacking. If you do go out in bigger stuff, angling the board towards the shoulder prior to takeoff is a good survival technique. A board with some rocker will get you into some amazing places. Check the rocker on my ride. It's not the wave-hog knee paddle monster that a 10' board usually is, but the thing is magical in overhead surf. It was shaped on the north shore, where they know how to ride big boards in big waves.



    Leash? I have this rule about my leash being longer than my board. I custom ordered a 15' leash for my 10' board. I use the just under the knee approach to keep from getting tangled.