always hold on to your board. You don't need to ask for any more details or clarification, its just one of those rules of surfing. Eventually you'll figure out for yourself why its so important, beyond just not spearing the guy behind or next to youSo how is it dangerous for me? I'm not being a smart ass here, typing has no tone....I ask to make sure I am not putting myself at risk.
Ill take a pounding before I'll let my board looseout of others safety. However ive been pounded hard and have the board ripped out of my hands. In most instances white water I let rush between me and the board. I also mad dash to get over or thru the wave but if it's gonna pound on top of my head I go for the thunder down under and hold tight.
Calf leash and turning turtle.
thanks all. I went out again last night on the log in some 1-2 occasional waist high surf. Don't you just love that time of night that the wave faces start to change colors? One is all pink, the next is orange, then purple. The last 5 or 10 minutes of daylight.
Anyways, didn't bother with a leash. I got like 100 waves and was all over the nose. Aside from duck diving, the learning curve is over. I still can't get that thing under water... After one of you said it was possible I was determined. Nope. I grab the rails and push with all of my might. Don't get me wrong, I can get under anything on my short boards, but this thing is just huge (that's what she said). Getting really far back and just letting the bow ride up and over the white wash seems to be working, but I havn't been stuck inside in anything serious yet on the log.
Last edited by purpleheadedyogurtslinger; Jun 27, 2012 at 01:50 PM. Reason: added a that's what she said
Duck diving a long board:
Just to give you the trick one more time:
push one rail down and knife the board under the water, once under the wave level the board out (remember the board is at a funny angle because of the way you pushed it under the wave) & as you feel the wave passing by overhead, press the tail of your board down with your knees or your feet
Last edited by zaGaffer; Jun 27, 2012 at 10:16 PM.