Ill take a pounding before I'll let my board looseout of others safety. However ive been pounded hard and have the board ripped out of my hands. In most instances white water I let rush between me and the board. I also mad dash to get over or thru the wave but if it's gonna pound on top of my head I go for the thunder down under and hold tight.
Well at least someone thought "Thunder Down Under" was funny. LOL
always hold on to your board. You don't need to ask for any more details or clarification, its just one of those rules of surfing. Eventually you'll figure out for yourself why its so important, beyond just not spearing the guy behind or next to you
Exactly. So many reasons to maintain control. It may be easier to ditch and avoid the pounding , but eventually when you surf in enough situations you realize its a pretty bad habit to take the easy route.
You know, I never said ditch your board every chance you get. I only said if the wave is looking huge like it's gonna hurt you (paraphrased) dive deep....without your board. Ditching your board is obviously a "only if you HAVE to" thing....it's not going to help you get out if you keep ditching it.....and it's never okay if you are around others. If you look, you will see pictures of my board out of control, in the air.....AND NO ONE IN SIGHT! Half the time I surf by myself....and I mean by myself.
Now I shall tuck tail and run.....pretty sure 20 more people are going to see this as a new chance to harp on the same subject.
hey man the key to a proper turtle is easy. you need to roll when the whitewater is about 5 yards away. once upside down and underwater. PULL the nose down, (your body should act as an anchor) hold the rails about a foot from the nose and make sure it is lower underwater then the rest of your board, as the wave passes over the tail it will pull you and the nose up. finish the roll and paddle out. dont be that guy turtle-ing in waist high waves either, only head high or bigger. get some old films and watch how they handled their logs. i could give you a bunch of different ways to getting out on bigger days, walk-overs, spring-overs are just a couple. there is a time and place for each one. you'll figure it out.
How big can you go with a Longboard? That depends on loads of factors like the shape of the wave, the shape of the board, and the skill level of the surfer. You could really get yourself into a lot of trouble with ~10 of foam and glass, especially if it is a vintage noserider (flatter rocker) and the surf is jacking. If you do go out in bigger stuff, angling the board towards the shoulder prior to takeoff is a good survival technique. A board with some rocker will get you into some amazing places. Check the rocker on my ride. It's not the wave-hog knee paddle monster that a 10' board usually is, but the thing is magical in overhead surf. It was shaped on the north shore, where they know how to ride big boards in big waves.
Leash? I have this rule about my leash being longer than my board. I custom ordered a 15' leash for my 10' board. I use the just under the knee approach to keep from getting tangled.
What has worked for me is punching through the white water or doing the push up and let the water run through. I ride a 9' x 21" x 2.5" little on the sleek side for a longboard. I'm trying to duck dive too but its very tiring after a few consecutive tries..turtling works best for me right now in the stomach high range. But I've only had to turtle up once in the last month or so, I think it was in early June where VABeach had some nice surf from a low that formed off the coast.
Good question though, I was able to get some useful info from the responses...
Trying to duckdive on a log is cool if you like getting slammed into the sand... In bigger surf the "thunder down under" is probably the easiest way to get past the breaking waves without losing too much forward momentum.
It's easy, Loggerhead hit it on the nose. I turtle in all size waves, its fun and when people think that you're a kook they usually stay the #### away from you.. Just a bonus