I have 3 boards in my quiver but none seem suited best for mushy, close-out type of summer surf. I can’t remember the exact dimensions but my main two boards are made locally by Cosmic Bull Surfboards. The owner, Bill LaFleur, have been great to deal with and is a big help but I wanted to get other opinions on which direction to go also.
My #1 board is a 6’5” hybrid fish thruster shaped by Tom Eadon, dimensions are 6’5” x 14” x 20 3/8” x 15 ¾” x 2 ¾”, medium rocker, 6 oz glass. My other board is also a Cosmic Bull/Tom Eadon 7’2” quad fin, tri-plane hull, dimensions 7’2” x 14 3/8 x 21 x 15 5/8 x 2 7/8 and was intended to be my smaller wave or winter board but it turns out it needs speed from bigger waves so it doesn’t work well on small surf.
I’m 34 years old, 6’2” and about 200 lbs. I’ve been surfing since I was about 19 and would call myself intermediate-advanced. It’s getting harder to ride my shortboard in nominal surf as I get older! I’d like to get something easier to paddle into but not sacrifice too much maneuverability (not ready to make the longboard plunge yet). I’m pretty sure a true fish would be perfect because I can keep it short and still have the volume to paddle into anything. Something like a bonzer maybe?