Hi, first post here.
I have 3 boards in my quiver but none seem suited best for mushy, close-out type of summer surf. I can’t remember the exact dimensions but my main two boards are made locally by Cosmic Bull Surfboards. The owner, Bill LaFleur, have been great to deal with and is a big help but I wanted to get other opinions on which direction to go also.
My #1 board is a 6’5” hybrid fish thruster shaped by Tom Eadon, dimensions are 6’5” x 14” x 20 3/8” x 15 ¾” x 2 ¾”, medium rocker, 6 oz glass. My other board is also a Cosmic Bull/Tom Eadon 7’2” quad fin, tri-plane hull, dimensions 7’2” x 14 3/8 x 21 x 15 5/8 x 2 7/8 and was intended to be my smaller wave or winter board but it turns out it needs speed from bigger waves so it doesn’t work well on small surf.
I’m 34 years old, 6’2” and about 200 lbs. I’ve been surfing since I was about 19 and would call myself intermediate-advanced. It’s getting harder to ride my shortboard in nominal surf as I get older! I’d like to get something easier to paddle into but not sacrifice too much maneuverability (not ready to make the longboard plunge yet). I’m pretty sure a true fish would be perfect because I can keep it short and still have the volume to paddle into anything. Something like a bonzer maybe?
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! <br />
Results 1 to 10 of 18
Jun 26, 2012, 01:58 PM #1
Help me design a new fish/summer slop wave board!
Jun 26, 2012, 02:23 PM #2
Check out the JS Pier Pony and maybe design something to that effect. You could probably go with a 5'8" and just add volume in the middle as needed.
Jun 26, 2012, 03:00 PM #3
Jun 26, 2012, 03:18 PM #4
Jun 26, 2012, 03:34 PM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2012
if you are talking about small waves ...I have grovel short boards and that is all cool in like waist high surf but anything less you want a log. I am curious to experiment with a mini simmons but I actually read that they thrive in like waist-chest high surf and I can ride other boards in that. On my 9'4 noserider I can ride seriously ankle high mush all the way into the beach.
Jun 26, 2012, 04:02 PM #6
Jun 26, 2012, 04:30 PM #7
I had a 6'4" Sharp Eye which was fun if teh waves were dumping and hollow but otherwise too much work. I'd like to stay away from the longboard end and stay somewhere in the middle
Jun 26, 2012, 05:45 PM #8Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
For mushy summer surf you want something short, wide, and fat with a wider tail pod and a quad setup. Low rocker, flat to vee on the bottom. That formula is proven to be best here in Jersey if you want to have fun in weak waves. The specific details of your shape and dims should be worked out with a local shaper to get the volume and foam distribution correct to optimize the board for your weight, style, and ability. Or grab a short, wide, fat quad off the rack is the second option.
Shape Your Surfing Experience
Jun 26, 2012, 06:16 PM #9
Jun 26, 2012, 11:23 PM #10
I like a diamond or bat tail... both will shorten the rail line and tighten the turning radius on wide, flat boards for local surf. Flat to vee bottom or slight single to vee depending on rocker. Pair that up with slightly down rails and a full foil and you've got a a summer slop board that will work well in anything under head high.
Last edited by LBCrew; Jun 26, 2012 at 11:29 PM.