Last week I was out in some small poor surf. I had spent about two hours and only got 2 waves....guess I just needed to be in the water. But something EPIC happened......I caught and rode a wave that didn't break. I could hardly believe it.....that's the first time I have ever done that. It was beautiful, I turned left, I turned right and I rode the nose all the way in
Anyone else have that experience? Did it evoke a stoke in you? Or is that just an average day for a better surfer than myself?
View Poll Results: Riding the unbroken
- 5. You may not vote on this poll
Results 1 to 10 of 17
Thread: Riding the unbroken
Jun 26, 2012, 05:04 PM #1
Riding the unbroken
Jun 26, 2012, 05:14 PM #2
By "a wave that didn't break" you mean that it actually provided a face to ride on, right? As opposed to just folding over into mush and white water? If so, yes that is the utter source of stoke. Congrats
You like that, check out this break:
Jun 26, 2012, 05:28 PM #3
Jun 26, 2012, 05:31 PM #4Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Monmouth County
summer is definitely here.
Jun 26, 2012, 05:53 PM #5
So you've set up a poll to find out if anybody on here has ever surfed an actual wave?
Jun 26, 2012, 06:06 PM #6
Loosen your jock strap......the poll is of a humorous nature.
And I am talking about a wave that didn't break.....at all! It just rolled in, without rolling over.
Jun 26, 2012, 06:10 PM #7
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- milton delaware
It didnt particularly "evoke a stoke" in me. It did evoke an irritation that my wife had persuaded me to leave the North Shore where there had been actual good waves (of the breaking kind). The view of Diamond Head was nice but would have been better looking out of a barrel.
Last edited by mitchell; Jun 26, 2012 at 06:12 PM.
Jun 26, 2012, 06:22 PM #8
Last edited by zaGaffer; Jun 26, 2012 at 06:36 PM.
Jun 26, 2012, 06:40 PM #9
ummmm if you never rode a wave with an open face before did you just head straight to the beach on closeouts? Either way cruising a nice open face wave and feeling the glide is soooo fun!!!
Jun 26, 2012, 06:48 PM #10
It was small....very small....maybe 1.5 to 2 feet.....held up by off shore winds. I'm sure it broke once it made the last sandbar, but I caught it out far and it lost power and form just before the beach, in the tench....when I went for it, I thought it would break at some point, and just couldn't believe that it didn't AND I was riding it. I rode it both left and right.....practiced turning.....was completely beside myself and stoked. I had heard it was possible (longboarding) but didn't know I could do it.
I hope that clears things up for everyone.