Last week I was out in some small poor surf. I had spent about two hours and only got 2 waves....guess I just needed to be in the water. But something EPIC happened......I caught and rode a wave that didn't break. I could hardly believe it.....that's the first time I have ever done that. It was beautiful, I turned left, I turned right and I rode the nose all the way in
Anyone else have that experience? Did it evoke a stoke in you? Or is that just an average day for a better surfer than myself?