Zman... I wasnt there, didnt see it with my own eyes... but you didnt have 5 foot waves where you were.

Zman... I wasnt there, didnt see it with my own eyes... but you didnt have 5 foot waves where you were.
In WW it was playful and you could shortboard it but it was more like knee to thigh. if you want to get super technical it could have been 5 foot FACES from top to bottom.
But I do admire your stoke.
This is atrocious, worst week for surfing. I don't mean to complain, but I had lots of free time this week too, with the holiday and all.
It seemed like only the SUPs were having fun, tbh it made me want to get one.
The water was crazy clear with rays and sand sharks swimming under us. Awesome day
well besides jinxing the swell early, i went ahead and jinxed it even more by buying a new board. i picked up a 6'0 firewire sweet potato...holy fun. thing catches everything even during this occ knee high 2.6ft at 6 sec crap. reguardless of it not being hand made, i recommend this board to anyone.