
Originally Posted by
waverider
my whole life i have lived no closer than an hour and 15 min. from the east coast! in college, i went to hawaii for a summer, to see about moving there. it was perfect, everything i could have dreamed, 10 min walk to surf, unreal sunsets, etc., etc.. lined up a job for after i graduated college working at a pottery..not alot of money but enough to get by with. i always told my self i was never going to move further from the surf. to make a long story short, i never took the job in hawaii for various reasons. im still living an hour and 15 from the beach, but i have a good job,ive been happily married for 7 years,and we have our boy who just turned 5, and our baby girl who will be 2 in august! i still get to surf. not as much as i would like, but i still get to surf. lifes a journey, you have to find the balance that keeps you you! you have some great opportunities! think of it like this. if your a surfer, and you see all those reports going off, and your freakin out, because you want to go, but you cant, and you feal like your losing your identity,that sucks, but eventually you get over it, until the nxt swell, and the nxt swell, and the nxt. and if you never get to go, your going to lose that part of you. theres more to life than surfing. just because you step away from surfing for something else doesnt necessarilly mean its gone forever, even though it might feel that way, or maybe thats just me?PEACE!