ahhh... i recall herricane bob well. first hurricane that I was actually an accomplished enough surfer to get over the size and enjoy it. i recall creasing a line drive (remember them) in cadars in the morning and then another classic session in ship bottom later in the day....bill and irene stand out in my mind, but the most rippable waves that i recall from growing up were from Lily sitting off the coast for days...head high a frames..
Irene was pretty awesome. True that on Bill, he was a badass too. Getting pumped for Cane' season. We have had decent surf all summer after a relatively tame winter.
Waist high to a little overhead and good form are my favorite. Basically anything medium/long period and clean. Those are the swells that let me catch a lot of waves and avoid getting slammed. Big days are fun as hell, I just prefer smaller because big waves = a lower wave count due to selectivity, closeouts, and the fatigue factor with all that water moving out there.
I used to get out to Hawaii each winter and Costa Rica each summer and got to ride biggins out there. Good prep for big days during hurricane season, and a damn good time.
Ah yes Irene, almost forgot about her, she was a good time wasn't she? She's welcome back around these parts any time!
Man, SIS...Your stream of thought writing gets me every post. I kinda imagine you sitting in the back of a smoky bar hunched over a beer and an empty bowl of peanuts talking about how things used to be. Good content in your posts with an unusual delivery.
The best hurricane for me that I could fully take advantage of was Bill. I had multiple sessions/day and got to experiment with the whole quiver. This was the first time I've seen "corduroy" on the east coast. We didn't have to travel to get quality waves. I had a friend leave the Charleston area to go to the OBs and he regretted it after breaking a board and a leash after seeing how good we got it here.
He probably has a peg leg, a hook for a hand, an eye patch, and a parrot on his shoulder too.