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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    4,788
    Quote Originally Posted by SkegLegs View Post
    Big day preference because less of you in the water. Big pulse of swell, day 1, 10 people out, 990 watching from the beach making excuses like, tide's on it, looks drifty. Second day of swell, fades to chest high, 990 scraping each other, 10 people watching and laughing.
    Too choppy today, my balls itch, stubbed my toe, forgot my wax, leash too short, leash too long, water is too wet. etc.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    LBI
    Posts
    905
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by DawnPatrolSUP View Post
    stubbed my toe
    you should see this guy i know... this past weekend we had a little bit of swell and all he would tell us about is how he slammed the door on his toe. he probably surfed a total of 15 minutes friday through sunday and it wasn't even that big. people like that really piss me off...

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    4,788
    Quote Originally Posted by ND081 View Post
    you should see this guy i know... this past weekend we had a little bit of swell and all he would tell us about is how he slammed the door on his toe. he probably surfed a total of 15 minutes friday through sunday and it wasn't even that big. people like that really piss me off...
    Seriously lame excuse, i mean you have 9 other toes, for F sakes HAHA

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    LBI
    Posts
    905
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by DawnPatrolSUP View Post
    Seriously lame excuse, i mean you have 9 other toes, for F sakes HAHA
    haha i should have pulled that one on him... but really i've surfed with a broken toe and its more than tolerable. he decided he couldn't do good enough "bottom turns".

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    4,788
    Quote Originally Posted by ND081 View Post
    haha i should have pulled that one on him... but really i've surfed with a broken toe and its more than tolerable. he decided he couldn't do good enough "bottom turns".
    I'd rather kook it out and just go straight with a bum toe than sit on the beach if it hurts that bad

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Ryukyu Islands
    Posts
    524
    too general. getting toward DOH reefs with a nice channel or Points=lotsa fun. getting toward DOH beachbreak, at least east coast, too much work too dumpy/can't hold it & often in ****ty conditions. On the right board its all the same knee high to a couple overhead... after that it gets interesting. Not a big wave rider, no interest in it even in media (rather watch lip tricks than dudes go down the line however large the wave may be), but my preference would be 8-10ft east coast (4-5 island). Most comfortable here as this size allows my fatness to truely shine.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Carolina Beach
    Posts
    855
    Images
    1
    For me its not only size but the swell direction, tide and board choice that really dictates how I approach a session. In NJ when its mid sized, hollow, and peeling down the line then all I am concerned with is pulling into barrels, whether I think I can make it or not. The bigger it gets or if the inside has a lot of current then the more choosy I get on which waves to go on. When it's small I just go on everything whether it's a closeout or not. Both are fun in their own way.

    You can try anything in small waves without much consequence, but when it gets bigger I am a little more hesitant. Although, bigger waves = more speed which makes it easier to do almost every type of turn as long as you time the sections right.

    I guess whether it's big or small, surfing is just fun.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Santa Barbara, CA/CT
    Posts
    338
    ****ing nerds

  9. #19
    I Don't know what it is but I get nervous on even 4 foot 3 foot waves I dont know what it is? Did any of you guys run into this in your younger teens. I already talked about it but I still get hesitant than I go over the falls and get this...
    Doesn't look bad but hurts like a *****

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Monmouth Beach, NJ
    Posts
    2,575
    Quote Originally Posted by Stranded in Smithfield View Post
    too general. getting toward DOH reefs with a nice channel or Points=lotsa fun. getting toward DOH beachbreak, at least east coast, too much work too dumpy/can't hold it & often in ****ty conditions. On the right board its all the same knee high to a couple overhead... after that it gets interesting. ...my preference would be 8-10ft east coast (4-5 island). Most comfortable here as this size allows my fatness to truely shine.
    I have a few friends who are like, "I'm done with big waves." My answer to that is... if it's 8' and perfect, you're gonna see it and start drooling and shaking and scrambling for your gear like a grom. But if it's 6' and gnarly board-snapping dumpers... well... that's just your age and good judgement whispering in your ear.

    For me, perfect and waist high on the right board, and a couple overhead on the right board are just as much fun.

    NOT!... Hhahahaha! I take it back.... now that I think about it. Overhead and perfect is WAY more fun!