Hurricane Igor, PR. Somehow I pull off a quick trip to the island during the height of Igor. Fly into San Juan, drive over to Rincon where I'm staying and hit the beach. Go to parking lots, Antonios. Pull up to a guy leaving with a broken board, 2 guys with broken leashes and an ambulance leaving. There are never ambulances in Rincon. For some reason I lost all reason in the rush to get down there and bring only my 6'4 Orion instead of my big wave board. Start paddling out at parking lots and I'm nearly out when here comes the mother of all sets. I can see its going to break outside of me, and with all I had seen on the beach, I was afraid to try and duck dive and and afraid to break my leash, so I just turn like an idiot and take the wave on my back, I dont know what the hell I was thinking. The thing squashes me like a cockroach, is the only way I can explain it. I grab my leash and reel the board back in and get back on underwater and then I realize i'm about 10 ft under. Surely it will reach the top eventually. Finally after what seemed like forever I start heading for the top. Nearly knocked the wind out of me. Dont know what I would have done different.