In NJ during hurricane irene, probably like a 6 footer. Best I can remember, I havent really gotten worked, I dont paddle mavs, haha. But i just paddled out wrong, impact zone, out of breath, late duck dive,while not even catching my breath, tossed me around hard for a good 4 seconds, leash got tangled, I was really out of breath so started to thrash, not good, learn my lesson to not force a duck dive and take the breather.
First time I went out during a Hurricane on the east coast about 2 years ago. Biggest i've ever seen at my local beach. I thought I'd get a good look at a barrel before duck diving. I stalled a little too long and didnt make it. It sucked me backwards over the falls, but it probably wasn't nearly as bad as it seemed because the waves were around 6-7 ft.
Got wrapped up in a pier down in nags head when i first started surfing, some random swell where it was like 6 foot and a bad drift. got sucked right into the pier hit a few pilings then my board went one way and i went the other, waves kept breaking right on my back pushing down before i could i catch my breath and kept me from taking my leash off. bout pooped my wetsuit that day, juuust cause im a kook
body surfing the break wall in Condido, San Juan PR. I got tossed over the falls onto dry sand then a head high wave landed on me full on, knocking the wind out of me. AS I rolled over to try and get my breath (in the dry sand) another one even bigger exploded on me. By the time I got out of the water I was bleading out of my F**King eyeballs! No bueno.
I seem to get worked on those head high days, when it's small enough to not think about taking precautions, but big enough put a hurt'n on you. I seem to let my guard down and do things like... not time the paddle out, jumping on the first wave of a set, taking off WAY to late or too deep, pulling in just to get the view when you know you can't make it out...
And the worst... not taking that nice big breath before you eat sh!t. I gotten pummeled by head high waves a number of times, and found myself upside down and held under for just a few more seconds than I've panned... with nothing in my lungs... or blowing out my nose underwater to keep from getting a sinus full... and realizing, "wow... didn't expect this!... I'm still under and have NO air!"
Sounds about right, I think Hurricane Bill is the worst i've ever been slammed and held under.... matter of fact, I know it's the worst. It was much larger than I was expecting that day, but I paddled out anywaysOriginally Posted by LBCrew
Irene got me good. It was the second day of the swell, and it was as big as I have seen in east Florida. I paddled in to a big set wave and dropped in. About halfway down the face I got the speed wobbles, dug a rail and went head first over the nose of my board. I skipped on the surface a couple of times, then the wave picked me up and slammed me, knocking the wind out of me. I was tumbling around for a while under water, bounced off the sand bar a few times and finally slowed down. I wasn't sure which way was up so I tugged on my leash and made it to the surface gasping for air.
That one scarred me good. There were not a lot of people out in the water, and it was heavy enough that even if there were, they might not have been able to help. One of the few times I was truly afraid I couldn't hold my breath long enough to surface.
Stay safe my friends.
I do remember gettin blown up real good on a close out during Bill. I thought I saw a makeable barrel. I was wrong.
9 out of 10 were closeouts if i recall, wish we had gone to Melbourne or NSB instead, they held the swell quite nicely
Same here.......Two wave hold down running about 12'. The loop that you tie your rashguard to your boardshorts broke and pulled the rashie over my head. I took a freakin beating!!!
Reply With Quote
