On the paddle out during the Hurricane Sandy swell. Thought I was finally out and then a bigger set came through, probably 10-12 ft, made just managed to make it under the lip of the first but then got sucked back over the falls. Went straight from the top to the sand, don't know how many tumbles after that along with the next 2 waves following. After that I made it out no problem.
Hurricane Bill Manasquan Inlet. I got tossed as i went for a snap way to late on the lip. I tossed around for a few seconds... then i felt my leash wrap around my neck while i was hog tied. i had to release my leash of my ankle. I don't know how long i was under but i got to (J- Jackal) while being tossed and trying to get the leash off my neck. I use the Alphabet trick on bad falls.
D- Daring ..you get the idea..
for the record, a 10-12 foot beach break is pretty big.
Was not the typical break. Might have been twice as far out as is usual there. I thought it was gigantic at the time. Glad you set the record straight though. I don't want to be the guy that overhypes an experience...but it scared the hell out of me.
i was surfing a shallow shore break on a hurricane swell, it was head high, super punchy and dumping on some sections. i took a late drop was riding in the barrel for about 2 seconds, when i went ass over tea kettle and smashed my shoulder into the sand. that's when i heard a snap. when i surfaced i couldn't move my shoulder, it was frozen in place. i swam with one arm back to shore and had my girlfriend help me get my wetsuit off and to my surprise my collar bone wasn't connected to my shoulder anymore. I snapped all the ligaments connecting it to my shoulder. This happened 6 months ago and i just got back in the water about 1 month ago. My collar bone still sticks up about a quarter inch higher than the other. it sucks, but everyone pays there dues sometime or another.
Great thread! I don't have any crazy stories, but I did experience the longest hold down of my life a couple weeks ago. The storm system was a good 500 miles offshore so the buoy was reading 8 ft at 14 secs, which is about as good as it gets around me. A bomb breaks about 20 yds in front of me so I had plenty of time to take a deep breath and do my best to duck dive, but ended up getting sucked over the falls anyways. Normally I take one tumble and I'm up, but this thing gave me a good series of tumbles before it finally let me go. It was the first time I've ever been deep enough that I really had to swim a little to get to the surface. The wave probably carried me 50 yds and held me down for 20 secs but it wasn't anything compared to some of the horror stories you guys have...
I never saw the end result, but she panicked and must have had to swim a mile back to shore at least... her board was probably toast too.... I was like, wtf were you thinking? Just letting a mountain of whitewater railroad you from behind.....