It's the Surfers Admit Your Bad Habits in Public Oprah Catharsis Show

It's the Surfers Admit Your Bad Habits in Public Oprah Catharsis Show
foot placement - if i give it the proper attention, get my stance wide, and get my back foot in the right spot, i can do anything. if i not, i spend the rest of the wave trying to compensate. you'd think it would be automatic after all these years, but no...
oddly enough, it's a habit i picked up from skateboarding with a tight stance when i was growing up. works really well on a 34" deck with loose trucks but not so much on a 6'2".
barrell dodging is my bad habit. I've gotten pretty good at it...here are my top methods
- take too low a line and get axed on the head
- giving up on the wave as a close out (unmakable) barrell to quickly and either straighten off or kick out over the top. Then realize it actually might have been possible. I rarely just keep driving down the line until I get swallowed up.
- get in early, out in front and just can't pull the trigger to tail-stall even though know instantly I should have.
- refuse to take a drawn out bottom turn, even on a wave where I'm clearly driving for the shoulder too fast.
Dang mitchell its like you've know me my whole life...I got the same issue... I don't know... I never been a barrel hound...sniffing them out... Only 3 ways i get barreledbarrell dodging is my bad habit. I've gotten pretty good at it...here are my top methods
- take too low a line and get axed on the head
- giving up on the wave as a close out (unmakable) barrell to quickly and either straighten off or kick out over the top. Then realize it actually might have been possible. I rarely just keep driving down the line until I get swallowed up.
- get in early, out in front and just can't pull the trigger to tail-stall even though know instantly I should have.
1. Frontside on late drops stall right into it
2. out a little bit in front & I do a layback backside
3. or when its impossible to not get barreled
urgh!!!! and small waves make my arms wavy like I'm rolling up a car window... I hate that.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rayblas...ream/lightbox/
doing both in the same photo....crap and I have kook boots on... i hate myself
Last edited by Stranded in Smithfield; Aug 10, 2012 at 12:43 AM.
Surfing too many lefts since I am a goofy footer and then surfing a right and realizing how much better and sharper of turns i make on lefts
That's a sick photo
Not eating or drinking properly leading to CRAMPS!!!
i refuse to learn to surf because i already know how to bodyboard and i dont want to spend the rare 'good' days learning something else