Out of the water for the next two months with Exostosis (surfer's ear) surgery. Kids wear your ear plugs! im only 24 and have 98% closure. Not fun when you cant hear **** in either ear, and now have to sit on the beach during cane season. Back in the water in November. Check out Dr.Hetzler in Santa Cruz if anyones close to getting surgery.
I'm scheduled for a consult with a surgeon in Wilmington Delaware in October. A few years ago i was scheduled to have the surgery and backed out scared. My ears are worse now...
This time i'm gonna do it in the coldest part of next winter.
Yeah, i wish i could wait that long so i could surf the fall, but ears are basically closed. Took the next available appointment, so im set to go under Sept. 21. Not taking the chance of going in until then, unless its absolutely as good as it gets. plus, two months in the scheme of time is nothing. Will be even more frothed up once i get back in the water. check out Dr. Hetzler if your nervous. really nice guy and have heard tons of good reviews. plus, he's perfected the chisel approach so no more drilling.
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9'3 log; pu/pe with nose concave to flat to rolled vee
from left... 6'4 battail groveler; epoxy/eps with shallow single to double concave
6'0 fish; epoxy/eps with modern bottom contours
6'6 hpsb; epoxy/eps with single to double concave
7'0 East Coast Gun; pu/pe with vee in the entry to flat to double concaved forward vee
all 021.jpgall 012.jpgAttachment 5555all 009.jpgAttachment 5555Here you go. From left to right. 6'0 Richard Price transformer II, sort of like a dumpster diver, my go to board for anything from waist to 2-4 overhead in PR, ridden as a quad in small surf and tri in larger. I can't say enough about this board, EPS and glassed by my friend who shapes with BAT. Second is my 6'4 Orion, Greg Geiselman, super fun potato chip but a hard float these days. Third is my 6'4 BAT custom from Brian Tudor shaped for PR, great semi step up. Fourth is my 6'9 Cannibal custom from AJ specifically for large PR. That thing is a missle and can handle double over head +. Fifth is a 7'4 Quiet Flight bought and ridden on the North Shore in 1996. Sixth of course is my sons 6'0 surftech that he freakin shreds on.
Honestly since I got the Transformer II I haven't hadly used any of the others. It floats better since none of the others are EPS. It gets into waves easier with the width and volume forward. I took it to PR for Easter this year. It was 2-4 ft overhead when I got there and it handled it great! When the swell subsided I switched it to quad and hit wilderness for a few days. The thing is my magic carpet ride for sure. On a side note we stayed at Fisheye overlooking Marias and it was awesome. They have a pool where you can watch the surf and it keeps the family happy. You just walk down the hill and hit it brah. I took these from the pool deck and of course the only pics my wife got were from small Wildo.