One day when I grow up (joke here) I'd like to surf Hawaii especially after reading Saltwater Buddha by Jaimal Yogis. Just looking at those pics gives me butterflies.
I think its cool that most great or accomplished surfers seem pretty humble (from what I've read) not sayin I know any of them in case someone tries to call me out.
Dude, you get the best barrels ever, dude. Just like, you pull in, and you just get spit right out of ‘em. Just drop in and just smack the lip, wapahhhh! Drop down: say bahhhh And then after that, you just drop in and just ride the barrel and get pitted; so pitted.
Feel free to quote me in your book.
the wave breaks close to the beach and there is a channel ... its not hard