yeah our NE facing beaches will see nothing of a 7ft south swell...flies right past us
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Aug 24, 2012, 03:27 PM
i was visiting my grandpa a couple years ago in va beach on sat night in early august and it was chest-shoulder, lots of fun from an early hurricane. the next morning (sunday) was terrible down there, knee high on set, while my buddies in NJ were getting OH bombs
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Aug 24, 2012, 03:52 PM
You also have to look at more information than just the buoy reading.
\nThe reading you are seeing on the forecast page is just the DOMINANT wave height and period. This does not necessarily mean you will be seeing this at all. I use the tools on my favorite fishing site fryingpantower.com to get detailed swell information that will give a more clear estimate.
\nFor instance, right now in WB:
\n41110 August 24, 2012 10:21 am EDT
\nLocation: 34.141N 77.709W
\nSignificant Wave Height: 3 ft
\nDominant Wave Period: 15 sec
\nAverage Period: 3.8 sec
\nMean Wave Direction: ESE (115°)
\nWater Temperature: 81°F (27.2°C)
\nYou would think by this data there should be at least chest high closeouts here. But, look at this http://wblivesurf.com. Knee, barely over shorebreak.
\nSo, I go back and look at this: http://map5.sst-offshore.com/images.tmp//reef.426.png
\nI see that the real swell is much smaller with a shorter period and coming from at least 90 degrees in another direction, which is causing it to jack up every once in a while offshore in an interaction with the barely sizable longer period ground swell (which I bet is really 1' at about 25 seconds right now) and causing the buoy to report a false dominant swell and period (I believe it's called a "node"). As the ground swell really begins to fill in it will overpower the wind swell and give the buoy enough push to give a more accurate reading. Or, at least that is how I understand it.
\nSo, when the buoys are giving false readings in this situation, it will ultimately cause a forecast for on-shore wave height to also be inaccurate.
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Aug 24, 2012, 08:21 AM #1Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
Heights compared with chart markings?
Now I don't know much about swell tracking or reading or much of that sort.
But I was wondering why sometimes swells tracked at larger heights, are posted as smaller on the chart? For instance, at 2pm sunday in monmouth county, it is listed as 4.6 feet. while 2 hours later it is listed as 3.0 with a second swell of 3.6. Why, on the chart, is that second set of swells listed as chest high while the 4.6 swell is listed as between waist and chest?