Hey all,
Looks like I may be popping up to the banks to visit family for the weekend....if the forecast (3.9 @ 12 ..... 4.5 @ 13) stays the same is it going to be closeout city like it is here in South Carolina or can some of the bars or piers on the banks line up a swell like this? If its going to be shutdown city I'll save my time and gas and I won't make the drive----Thanks for any help!
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what is this dude talking about??? weirdOriginally Posted by meatloaf
ground swell -> OBX -> yes, go.
cheers--thanks!
15 or 16 secs would prob close out but 12-13 would be legit like SI mentioned above...check out the hurricane bill foooooooooootagee
I'm interested in the reasoning as to why long period swell on most east coach beach breaks are always walled? Is it simply because of really weak sandbars? The only reason it is confusing to me is because all of the Costa beach breaks I surf are always lining up pretty well with 16-18 sec periods. I'm sure there are many variables involved (swell direction, weak sandbars, etc), but could someone explain to me why on the east coast when we see long period swell on the way we immediately think "closeout city."
It's called short sandbars and steep drop offs in places like NJ. If the sand bar extends far out and has a more gradual slope it won't close out as bad. Just look at some of the footage from hurricane bill in florida. Breaking like 1/4 mile out off the beach as some spots with peeling a-frames and that was with a 15 second swell.
In New Jersey for example, it's a completely different type of wave. It's super heavy and hollow and closes out a lot even with a 4 foot at 8 second swell and breaks extremely close to shore. That's because the sand bar doesn't extend far out. Some places don't break at all or shorepound. Replenishment projects using different sand grain/techniques that they use in Florida is the main reason for this type of sand bar break in much of the mid atlantic.
OBX has great sandbars, but the paddle out can be hard as with any beach break in a big ground swell. Should be doable with this swell for sure though! Go for it! Just know your own limits.
Last edited by shark-hunter; Sep 3, 2012 at 10:20 PM.
Thanks for droppin' that knowledge. And I know all about ****ty paddle outs. Anyone here ever surf playa Bejuco on a big day? 30 minutes of straight grinding to get out there. Hope everyone gets some this week/end, we definitely deserve it.
A small day there is better than any good day in Myrtle Beach. A 2 foot wave in OBX has the power of a waist high+ in Myrtle. Oh and bring your huevos you might just need themAnd try not to make the rest of us jealous when you get back.
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