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  1. #1

    one thing I've forgotten that this swell reminded me of...

    no matter how small, playful, and tempting some of the inside shorebreak looks on a ground swell, it's rarely worth the punishment. Took a beating trying to catch one as my last wave....should have called it a day or paddled out further.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Monmouth County, NJ
    Posts
    544
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    2
    Warm water makes the size no biggie. As far as being pounded, been worked worse by 4ft and 40 degrees.

  3. It was a good day all around, a variety of different waves, but I would rather the 40 degree water and way less brochachos out

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Monmouth Beach, NJ
    Posts
    2,416
    Quote Originally Posted by acg116 View Post
    no matter how small, playful, and tempting some of the inside shorebreak looks on a ground swell, it's rarely worth the punishment. Took a beating trying to catch one as my last wave....should have called it a day or paddled out further.
    Ha! I took a good one on the head yesterday, too. I got a big set wave and when I pulled out and over the shoulder, another macker was behind it. I scrambled back out thinking I might be able to just duck under it, but I ended up putting myself right in the impact zone. So when I ducked as deep as I could, it just it bounced me off the bottom. I ended up getting slammed down on my side, board in a death grip in both hands the whole time. When it finally let me go, of course my board floats to the top first, so now I'm upside down still holding my board by both rails, thinking... "good thing it's not winter."

  5. #5
    Clearly, the only barrels you have ever been in are made of French oak.