learning to surf in va beach. took a few lessons, did very well. not so well on my own.timing seems to be problem. am able to catch whitewater in smaller surf. in recent bigger surf, seem to be getting nailed from behind and thrown over front of board. maybe popping up too late. what tells me right time to pop up?
The most easy time to get up on a wave is when you feel that your momentum is the most equal to the speed of the wave moving. Its very natural to find the right time to "pop up" as long as you paddle well. My girlfriend is trying to learn how to surf and I always tell her, "no matter what the size is, its important to paddle hard enough for the specific wave you are trying to catch." White water or that perfect A frame, as long as you paddle hard enough you will feel the wave pick you up and as soon as your moving with the wave, GET UP.