Sitting waaaay outside...

[MFitz73]

As for the OP's original point... having a good quiver and choosing the right board for the day is what it's all about, IMO. THAT's how I get my "more fun." Maybe it's a quality over quantity thing...

That really was my entire point. I've been in the same break many times before with similar waves and my shorter boards and had sessions that left me feeling like it wasnt worth it.
When I headed over to check the waves out I was talking a an old timer buddy of mine and he was like, "I just got into an argument with some guy about how this is really a longboarders wave..." and while I was watching all these shortboarders flailing in the lineup, I was like.... "you know what... you're fcking right.... Im taking my longboard out..." and it was the best choice I made that day, other than actually going surfing.

[rlghdude]

Sounds about right, I use to get frustrated sitting on the inside with a shortboard on small days like this when that's all I had to ride. Having the proper equipment for the occassion has changed my surfing big time, and now I never show up unprepared. If it's the only stick you got, I get it, but don't expect much on these days, it's for loggers and SUP's, just like on DOH days you probably wouldn't take your log out or the SUP, the conditions dictate what I surf that day.

What type board I use completely depends on the conditions and type of wave.. Ive seen many good well overhead days when I could use my log, so I dont believe that big days are only for shorties. It depends on the wind, tide, swell period, swell direction, and most importantly, where your at. For instance in the Northern OBX, I will paddle my 9'6" out during any conditions (at most spots), however from Nags Head south, I prefer more performance due to a steeper wave, but that also varies. As long as your having fun, and not taking it seriously.

No one should ever be stressed out while surfing. People who fight, curse, get mad, or threaten violence on anyone else because of waves should just not be in the ocean.

[rvb]

I'm not gonna call anybody a "little beech"... or say who's right and who's wrong. I don't think that's the point of this thread. And if you think the lineup should be survival of the fittest, you won't get much argument from me. But speaking for myself only, I'll say this... wave hogs suck. I try not to be one, and leave the water feeling better when I'm not. But if YOU feel better being one... if that pumps your ego or makes you feel good about your session, that's all on you, but sorry... I can't relate. Pissing somebody else off so I can have MORE fun isn't something that makes me happy.

As for the OP's original point... having a good quiver and choosing the right board for the day is what it's all about, IMO. THAT's how I get my "more fun." Maybe it's a quality over quantity thing...

you said it all. paddle out and surf lots of good waves, have fun, leave totally content. and choosing the right stick for the conditions/break is key..

[zaGaffer]

Nobody Owes You Anything (all credit to Leethestud for coining it)

Actually, the general counsel lost a bet and now owes me a 5 Guys burger for lunch (all the way, bacon cheeseburger with jalapenos); however, he’s makin’ hisself scarce. Why can't you ever find a lawyer when they owe you, as opposed to the other way around? So, someone does in fact owe me something. Just not in the water. Some lawyers surf, but this one’s from Ohio, so nah brah.

. . . at a break . . . I'm not going to be letting . . . any . . . waves I am in position for. . . go by. . . you're on your own!

I’m runnin’ for or from sumthin’ and I approve this message.

[LBCrew]

5 Guys burgers are the BOMB! And those FRIES.... BANGIN!

[aka pumpmaster]

5 Guys burgers are the BOMB! And those FRIES.... BANGIN!

dont forget the lipator for desert!

[stinkbug]

That really was my entire point. I've been in the same break many times before with similar waves and my shorter boards and had sessions that left me feeling like it wasnt worth it.
When I headed over to check the waves out I was talking a an old timer buddy of mine and he was like, "I just got into an argument with some guy about how this is really a longboarders wave..." and while I was watching all these shortboarders flailing in the lineup, I was like.... "you know what... you're fcking right.... Im taking my longboard out..." and it was the best choice I made that day, other than actually going surfing.

I have to ask, for perspective of where you are coming from, how old are you?

A small wave is not necessarily a longboard wave in my opinion. Here in NJ, even when it's small, it can be a steeper wave, suitable for short boarding...punchy beachbreaks are not good waves for longboarding. Some spots do seem best for longboards, basically a mellower, slopey, easier wave to surf (can name a few around here in NJ, Waikiki, Malibu type waves). But I see longboarders out on chest to head high+ steeper days here and it just doesn't make sense to me. Alot of guys use longboards as a crutch because they can't really surf. They are easier to paddle, easier to get into a wave, and basically they just go straight down the line like a kook, feet locked in one place, arms up, cowabunga style. These are a shortboarders worst nightmare, and yes they will get dropped on if they are sitting out the back taking all the waves (sorry, just the way it is).
If you can actually longboard, like actually turn it, walk the board, toes on the nose, etc, then that's great. I love watching someone that can actually "longboard". Or if you are older (50+) and just like longboards because they are easier to surf, that's fine too.
But for the most part, most longboarders I see in NJ and the northeast in general are on them because they just don't know how to surf anything else...plain and simple.

[im way better than you]

This is the dumbest post ever. You say take the right equipment out? You surf a long board and I guarantee you cant short board (no your 7'6 NSP is not a short board). If the waves are 8 ft and firing then a short board is called for, but if your on a long board you will still be sitting way outside and get first shot at every single wave. So according to your logic everyone should long board always? Long boarding sucks and you waste waves standing there doing nothing. You should go share a break with the boogie boarders and waste waves together. So no matter what equipment the day calls for you will be "sitting waaaaaaay outside" and eventually your gonna get punched in the face. Don't ever think about going to California with this mentality or anywhere besides your terrible northeast beach break for that matter. Man i cant tell you how much I hate you

[MFitz73]

I have to ask, for perspective of where you are coming from, how old are you?

A small wave is not necessarily a longboard wave in my opinion. Here in NJ, even when it's small, it can be a steeper wave, suitable for short boarding...punchy beachbreaks are not good waves for longboarding. Some spots do seem best for longboards, basically a mellower, slopey, easier wave to surf (can name a few around here in NJ, Waikiki, Malibu type waves). But I see longboarders out on chest to head high+ steeper days here and it just doesn't make sense to me. Alot of guys use longboards as a crutch because they can't really surf. They are easier to paddle, easier to get into a wave, and basically they just go straight down the line like a kook, feet locked in one place, arms up, cowabunga style. These are a shortboarders worst nightmare, and yes they will get dropped on if they are sitting out the back taking all the waves (sorry, just the way it is).
If you can actually longboard, like actually turn it, walk the board, toes on the nose, etc, then that's great. I love watching someone that can actually "longboard". Or if you are older (50+) and just like longboards because they are easier to surf, that's fine too.
But for the most part, most longboarders I see in NJ and the northeast in general are on them because they just don't know how to surf anything else...plain and simple.

Im in my 30s. I have been surfing since my early teens. My longboard gets used about 1 out of 20times I surf. I can walk it, I can turn it... but I do prefer my shorter boards.
the wave in question was about waist high and pretty steep, for a waist high wave.... and without the early entry there was pretty much zero shot at making a section.

[MFitz73]

This is the dumbest post ever. You say take the right equipment out? You surf a long board and I guarantee you cant short board (no your 7'6 NSP is not a short board). If the waves are 8 ft and firing then a short board is called for, but if your on a long board you will still be sitting way outside and get first shot at every single wave. So according to your logic everyone should long board always? Long boarding sucks and you waste waves standing there doing nothing. You should go share a break with the boogie boarders and waste waves together. So no matter what equipment the day calls for you will be "sitting waaaaaaay outside" and eventually your gonna get punched in the face. Don't ever think about going to California with this mentality or anywhere besides your terrible northeast beach break for that matter. Man i cant tell you how much I hate you

you must rip on your morey doyle with that plastic red fin. lol. I use my long board maybe one out of 20times I surf.