In my mind, this is spot on. I would glide back outside to the peak and just chill for a while. but don't get me wrong I took full advantage after sitting and a set wave would come in... at that point the guys on the inside would have been too far inside to even be in position for it.
but even if people come and harsh on me, I don't give a flying fck because the advantage was so perfect for how I was surfing the spot that it was one of the best sessions I had in a long time. I think I was the only one who was actually havin fun out there.
Spot on bro...I'll sit out there and look at someone inside of me and tell 'em i'll paddle but you take it. or sit there and call someone into a set wave "this is all you bro , all you" then after you do that a few times they know you're not gonna bang every set wave that comes thru. surfed w/a kook on a log the other day(on LI) and this jackoff was taking off on every single good one. when I and a few others said something he was all attitude about "I'm closest to the peak, I got priority and all the other bullsh@t" A couple of other locals and myself then paddled out and sat right next to him and paddled for everything he went for. When we couldn't stop him, the boys on the inside just started dropping in. F-you logman--- RESPECT...GIVE IT,GET IT
used to have trouble catching waves on my shortboard... So I got a Jet Ski. I get on the wave about 500 yards out. I shred all the way to the beach. Then I zip through the line up at 60 mph and catch the 3rd wave in the set... Get the right equipment and you can catch as many waves as me!
For real though... The right equipment is what you like to ride. Unless it's an SUP. Those things suck. I kid
I have to ask, for perspective of where you are coming from, how old are you?
A small wave is not necessarily a longboard wave in my opinion. Here in NJ, even when it's small, it can be a steeper wave, suitable for short boarding...punchy beachbreaks are not good waves for longboarding. Some spots do seem best for longboards, basically a mellower, slopey, easier wave to surf (can name a few around here in NJ, Waikiki, Malibu type waves). But I see longboarders out on chest to head high+ steeper days here and it just doesn't make sense to me. Alot of guys use longboards as a crutch because they can't really surf. They are easier to paddle, easier to get into a wave, and basically they just go straight down the line like a kook, feet locked in one place, arms up, cowabunga style. These are a shortboarders worst nightmare, and yes they will get dropped on if they are sitting out the back taking all the waves (sorry, just the way it is).
If you can actually longboard, like actually turn it, walk the board, toes on the nose, etc, then that's great. I love watching someone that can actually "longboard". Or if you are older (50+) and just like longboards because they are easier to surf, that's fine too.
But for the most part, most longboarders I see in NJ and the northeast in general are on them because they just don't know how to surf anything else...plain and simple.
DUDE You are so right. Check out any "school,camp or instructor" and what are they out there PUSHING people into waves on?--plus the fact that they bring the board out for you , and forget about teaching the etiquette . I have actually stopped a guy w/ a gorgeous Robert August longboard w/no wax on it from paddling into a hurricane swell on the side of the jetty where he would have gotten hammered by the rip. His response "Well I really like the way the board looks, and didn't want to mess that up with wax. And I really don't need it do I?" wherever he bought it sold it to him for $950 and didn't even give him a bar of wax or a leash , like you usually would on a deal that big. It's getting scary with some of the people who are out there. They take 2 lessons , buy a board and call themselves surfers. every one of those schools should make the people they are teaching addle out by themselves. sit next to them and tell them when to go for a wave and NO LEASHES. let them see if they really wanna be surfers
My understanding of the rule is that to have the right of way from the outside, it is necessary to be fully up and riding on the wave--not merely paddling--before the wave gets close enough to anyone else for them to get it. If someone else is in the path of the peak, and you cannot be into the wave--up and riding--before that, then you do not have right of way. The wave belongs to the person at the peak, or closest to the breaking part of the wave. One needs to be very far outside to have enough room to be fully into the wave before anyone else can get it. Was this the case?
Holy Sh@t....what section of the rulebook is that in? Actually I agree with you dude. And I'll answer the Q...no he wasn't up and standing before he got close to anyone else
There are reputable schools out there that don't paddle out for you and don't push you into waves. Over the course of a week camp, I had an instructor who was like a drill sergeant. His words still ring in my head....paddle....we'd get there, then.....paddle....to another spot....sit up....paddle. Two three hour sessions a day. Because of it, (and continuing to paddle 2mi, three times a week) I can put in at dawn and surf straight through till 2. Who cares what boards we used.....big, sure. What's the problem? Drop in on a head high steep wave on a big board without pearling. Full step back and drop your knee then full step front. Read the bigboard bashing in the thread. Like it or not, it takes skill. Sure, a different skill than a short board, and a different take off point. I just don't get the "last- minute pop-up skate-down curl-up off-the-lip back-down one-last-turn, jump-up-and-down-on-the-board to get some speed!!!!dammit!!!!" Same thing every time. And someone in an earlier post said the longboarder just standing and riding in was "all played out." If that's the case, isn't surfing? (Paddle out, ride in, repeat). Regardless, a smooth ride is where it's at for me and the hyperdance is where it is for others....and that's totally cool. why shouldn't it be? A reputable school also teaches etiquette, and respect for the ocean (don't turn your back). Personally, anyone who starts surfing without some kind of intensive coaching is selling themselves, and those they share the waves with short. I've been to several weeks of instruction and afterward have logged hundreds and hundreds of hours surfing, and just recently began to consider myself a surfer.
As far as "sitting waaaay outside"...works for me when the day is right. Last week of July, 3-4' swell. Really nice day, fairly crowded. Every five minutes or so one larger wave would peak farther out, lasted that way for about an hour, and I was the only one there. The rest broke in another 15 yards. This thing would come like clockwork and everyone would start paddling out while I was already up. Had that peak to myself every time. Sometimes, it just works.
The guy with no wax or leash. That's just a shame. Aloha for looking out for him.
There's know solution to this issue...even the longboarders are *****ing about the unfair advantage the SUP's have.
Take the right board out for the conditions and let the chips fall where they may...btw, if you live and surf late into
life a crutch will become a neccesity. When you're young you never believe you'll get old but it will happen, trust me.
sometimes I also do this. You know why? Because I don't owe you anything. If you want a set wave, paddle out where the big boys sit. Shoulder hopping pu55ies. I never wear a leash on the log either, I don't even own one for it. S-T-R-E-T-C-H and I are going to F**k you up if you drop in so don't even be tempted. Pura Vida