Hi there! This is my first post on the forums I have a question pertaining to the bigger waves. I've been surfing for a few months and i can ride foamies pretty confidently. However, when i attempt to tackle a large wave my board always nose dives before i can get to my feet. I am surfing in the Cocoa Beach Florida area on a 8'8 longboard. Any tips would be great!!
Don't ditch the Foamy, yet...
David is right about practice but I bet you aren't to far forward on your board. Watch the podcasts and you'll see what I mean. Lot's of good info on them.
I just wanted to thank CBSCREWBY for the awesome link. I have surfed in Nosara, but was unaware of the SurfSimply folks. The mini-lecture that the guy gives on taking off on waves is fantastic. Watching that would have saved me a whole lot of trial and error along the way! I liked it so much I posted it on my Facebook page!
Adjust your paddle angle so your not at the bottom of the wave trying to get to your feet. Stand up as you get picked up in the direction the open face is go, especially if the drop in is going to be a little late.
Just keep practicing. Go out in all conditions (except huge). Paddle as hard as you can... Just remember, everybody struggled at first. It takes time to get "good"... If you stick with it you will find youself getting better and better.