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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Crystal Coast,N.C.
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    Incomprehensibly Un-Complex.....Food for Thought

    Nothing is simple. Reduce anything to its base components and you may find the illusion of simplicity, but invariably, the devil is in the details.
    Consider the oft-espoused mantra: "Grab a board, ride a wave". If you ask me that statement is only true during a very brief window of your surf life, beginning right after you've graduated from kookdom and ending the first time you start questioning the dimensions of your surfboard. From there you're one bad turn away from an eternity of tinkering with your fin setup and one good barrel away from devoting your life to following wearther patterns. It's during this brief interlude that surfing is indeed a simple pursuit. It's just you, your board, and the waves on that particular day or maybe thats just the way I remember it.
    Brendon Thomas
    Editor....Surfer Magazine


    Do you remember when you went not knowing what the swell would be? No forcasts, no cams. No variety of equipment cause of no cash or it just wasnt available yet. You owned one board and rode it in any kind of conditions and it worked fine. Had a great time didnt you. Yea i'm showing my age here but i think the man was right. Simple is better.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Charleston
    Posts
    1,436
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    8
    Quote Originally Posted by wave1rider65 View Post
    Nothing is simple. Reduce anything to its base components and you may find the illusion of simplicity, but invariably, the devil is in the details.
    Consider the oft-espoused mantra: "Grab a board, ride a wave". If you ask me that statement is only true during a very brief window of your surf life, beginning right after you've graduated from kookdom and ending the first time you start questioning the dimensions of your surfboard. From there you're one bad turn away from an eternity of tinkering with your fin setup and one good barrel away from devoting your life to following wearther patterns. It's during this brief interlude that surfing is indeed a simple pursuit. It's just you, your board, and the waves on that particular day or maybe thats just the way I remember it.
    Brendon Thomas
    Editor....Surfer Magazine


    Do you remember when you went not knowing what the swell would be? No forcasts, no cams. No variety of equipment cause of no cash or it just wasnt available yet. You owned one board and rode it in any kind of conditions and it worked fine. Had a great time didnt you. Yea i'm showing my age here but i think the man was right. Simple is better.
    Yeah, riding the white water rocked too. There was a time when hitting a baseball off a tee was challenging then a couple years later you're playing against people throwing faster than the speed limit. Progression is the key. No one goes out to be as good as the were yesterday. The stoke was new then but I wouldn't trade it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    anywhere there is surf
    Posts
    708
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    2
    i remember all through the 70's and 80's not knowing what the swell would be until i got there, there was always a forecast but from the local weather station the night before, its not like todays forecast models and cams...you know what really has screwed up the surfing (and this is just my opinion now)...camera phones, a couple of clicks and the whole world knows there are waves...you hardly ever hear from your friends "you shouldve been here yesterday"....yep, simplicity was where it was at, miss them days...lol

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    easternshore md.
    Posts
    78
    Those were the days. I would listen to noaa Report on my marine radio while fishing. Small craft advisory and wait for west winds! That pretty much worked for me.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    1,022
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    damn. i wish i surfed in the early days, granted im thankful for all the knowledge and board tech we have but the soul is almost gone. every time i watch an older surf movie it makes me wanna surf like those guys, not the new school

  6. #6
    I remember the ol days, you scored or grovelled - then dialing Surfline for a buck a pop.

    Hardest part for me now with all the cams and Family/work stuff - is how painful it is to KNOW you're missing it.

    Like sticking a needle in your eye, but I sadistically keep checking...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    MAINE
    Posts
    127
    Well I love having enough cash to buy my boards and suits. Anyone I want. I also love looking at what the forecast is so that I can spend time doing other useful hobbies instead of wasting time. I love having awesome websites that let me know what waves are best when, in the world, when I want to go on Vacation.

    Back in the day before I started surfing I used to skimboard in so cal and when I first started doing it I never checked anything and just went whenever. I remember the excitement and singleness of purpose and it was great. But time and us move on. The past is gone,and you cant get it back.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Monmouth Beach, NJ
    Posts
    2,573
    I remember spending many hours checking the surf as a kid... from my bike... and later, the back of a moped... and finally from the window of a car. I remember having to call the local surf shop for an eyes-on report from school or work, or getting "that feeling" when the winds blew from a certain direction and the sky looked a certain way.. a sort of anxiety about there being waves, and how I just had to get to the beach. Sometimes that meant cutting out of school, walking down the railroad tracks until far out of sight, then hitching to a friendly garage that was filled with boards and suits to borrow. Sometimes, on cold winter days, we'd build a little fire in the dunes and eat whatever we could grift from the corner store. At first, it was single fins... then came the Fish. Then thrusters and the first generation of quads (which kinda sucked). We graduated high school, got jobs, and just kept surfing at all costs. It was genuine... and simple. But time kept ticking, and jobs became careers, girlfriends became wives... and the crowds came. That's when things got complicated.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    MD - VA
    Posts
    4,274
    Quote Originally Posted by LBCrew View Post
    I remember spending many hours checking the surf as a kid... from my bike... and later, the back of a moped... and finally from the window of a car. I remember having to call the local surf shop for an eyes-on report from school or work, or getting "that feeling" when the winds blew from a certain direction and the sky looked a certain way.. a sort of anxiety about there being waves, and how I just had to get to the beach. Sometimes that meant cutting out of school, walking down the railroad tracks until far out of sight, then hitching to a friendly garage that was filled with boards and suits to borrow. Sometimes, on cold winter days, we'd build a little fire in the dunes and eat whatever we could grift from the corner store. At first, it was single fins... then came the Fish. Then thrusters and the first generation of quads (which kinda sucked). We graduated high school, got jobs, and just kept surfing at all costs. It was genuine... and simple. But time kept ticking, and jobs became careers, girlfriends became wives... and the crowds came. That's when things got complicated.

    Just wanted to say that this is really good writing, you evoke lots of neat images - - thank you for sharing it. Seriously, not kidding around; this is good stuff.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    BELMAR, NJ
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    1
    Quote Originally Posted by wave1rider65 View Post
    Do you remember when you went not knowing what the swell would be? No forcasts, no cams. No variety of equipment cause of no cash or it just wasnt available yet. You owned one board and rode it in any kind of conditions and it worked fine. Had a great time didnt you. Yea i'm showing my age here but i think the man was right. Simple is better.
    Those where the days.... i remember having the old NOAA radio- listening to it every morning trying to understand what the waves might be like... then driving to the beach with my ol longboard - totally anxious to see what the waves would be like- you know- "that feeling" that lbcrew mentioned. doing everything possible to get out in the water. Wish i never would have sold that ol board- many memories....

    Still love having that single board that you can ride everything with... but then you get all the other boards that just end up cluttering your fun- choosing which board to take... then comes all the other 'things' in life...

    those where the times
    Last edited by walkingonh2o; Oct 1, 2012 at 01:27 PM.