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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by ClemsonSurf View Post
    Yeah, riding the white water rocked too. There was a time when hitting a baseball off a tee was challenging then a couple years later you're playing against people throwing faster than the speed limit. Progression is the key. No one goes out to be as good as the were yesterday. The stoke was new then but I wouldn't trade it.
    An intersting thing. What do you do when age slows or reverses the progression. We will each reach a point where we are not as good as we once were "but as good once as we once were ". Seriously I see a lot of folks drop out at that point but the challenge to just keep going can keep the stoke and challenge alive. Surfing is alot more to me than being "good" or getting better.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 757surfer View Post
    damn. i wish i surfed in the early days, granted im thankful for all the knowledge and board tech we have but the soul is almost gone. every time i watch an older surf movie it makes me wanna surf like those guys, not the new school
    Good comment........for me thats what surfing has always been about......The soul of it.

  3. #13
    Do you remember power surfing? There was an article in Surfing Magazine a few months ago about "restoring power." The article made a lot of points that would fit this thread. Surfing is evolving, like everything else. Unlike technology, which will continue to evolve, the future of surfing is in our hands. If we want surfing to be all about airs and fashion statements, then sit back and enjoy the ride. Just like "surf etiquette" is supposed to be passed down by example, surfing roots must be passed down by example. Voice your opinion to the future.

  4. #14
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    I loved it back then. You got skunked more than you scored but the score was so much more exciting than planning your week around a swell info forecast. I remember trying to figure out what tomorrows surf would be by channel nine news marine forecast. They would say 3 to 4 foot seas with west wind the night before and I would be up at dawn. The only problem was that the wind had been been blowing west for 4 days and the 3 to 4 foot seas were going towards Europe, lol. Remember mysto swells? When there was a distant storm or a fetch developed out in the Atlantic we didn't even know about it. You would show up at the beach just like any other day to be greeted by perfection and no one but friends out for the whole day, ahh it was good to be a surfer way back when.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlrouen View Post
    Do you remember power surfing? There was an article in Surfing Magazine a few months ago about "restoring power." The article made a lot of points that would fit this thread. Surfing is evolving, like everything else. Unlike technology, which will continue to evolve, the future of surfing is in our hands. If we want surfing to be all about airs and fashion statements, then sit back and enjoy the ride. Just like "surf etiquette" is supposed to be passed down by example, surfing roots must be passed down by example. Voice your opinion to the future.
    Good stuff man, some of my favorite surf videos are those from "Many Classic Moments" in the 70's, watching guys like Buttons is where it's at, that guy did and still does rip. Nobody has his style, it's his own, and it's amazing to watch. He had a good story written about him in Surfer Mag a couple months back, glad he found his way back (those who know what i'm referring to)
    Last edited by DawnPatrolSUP; Oct 1, 2012 at 02:52 PM.

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by DawnPatrolSUP View Post
    Good stuff man, some of my favorite surf videos are those from "Classic Moments" in the 70's, watching guys like Buttons is where it's at, that guy did and still does rip. Nobody has his style, it's his own, and it's amazing to watch. He had a good story written about him in Surfer Mag a couple months back, glad he found his way back (those who know what i'm referring to)
    Equally a solid post. Although I did not grow up watching Buttons, I have a lot of respect for him, based on what I have read/watched. I think I may have even read the same article that you are talking about - the boy with the open smile? What a humble approach to surfing. Buttons surfed like he rode his skateboard, not like other pros - he created his own version of surfing. Today, a lot of surfers are chasing Dane and Kelly, when they should be chasing their own demons. Buttons chased his own demons down while holding up a peace sign & a big smile. That's what surfing is all about.

  7. #17
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    [QUOTE=DawnPatrolSUP;141386]Good stuff man, some of my favorite surf videos are those from "Classic Moments" in the 70's, ]

    here's one of my favorites.
    http://vimeo.com/26788702
    Last edited by Peajay4060; Oct 1, 2012 at 02:55 PM.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlrouen View Post
    Equally a solid post. Although I did not grow up watching Buttons, I have a lot of respect for him, based on what I have read/watched. I think I may have even read the same article that you are talking about - the boy with the open smile? What a humble approach to surfing. Buttons surfed like he rode his skateboard, not like other pros - he created his own version of surfing. Today, a lot of surfers are chasing Dane and Kelly, when they should be chasing their own demons. Buttons chased his own demons down while holding up a peace sign & a big smile. That's what surfing is all about.
    You got it man, that's what i'm talking. Although I didn't grow up watching Buttons (I was born in 81), I came to know of him in the last several years and have since admired him for what he was able to do, and more recently for what i've learned about him as an individual fighting his own demons and finding peace within himself, now he's back in the water and surfing better than ever, and is in the best shape i've ever seen someone of his age in. What a story for those who aren't familiar, do yourself a favor and go watch those films from the 70's

  9. #19
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    [QUOTE=Peajay4060;141388]
    Quote Originally Posted by DawnPatrolSUP View Post
    Good stuff man, some of my favorite surf videos are those from "Classic Moments" in the 70's, ]

    here's one of my favorites.
    http://vimeo.com/26788702
    Great videos considering the lack of technology compared to today. And the feeling you get from watching them is like none-other, it's like you were actually there and enjoyed the "simple" approach to life / surfing. What a time it must of been...

  10. #20
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    [QUOTE=DawnPatrolSUP;141392]
    Quote Originally Posted by Peajay4060 View Post

    Great videos considering the lack of technology compared to today. And the feeling you get from watching them is like none-other, it's like you were actually there and enjoyed the "simple" approach to life / surfing. What a time it must of been...

    i like when this guy posts a nickel on the beak of the board and trims through a section. he didn't cross step and he didn't shuffle. he just got there. very smooth