
Originally Posted by
live aloha
Hey guy, perhaps there is more to the story you do not know. Perhaps I would be willing to explain were it not for pretentious "dude I'm so rad and live near the waves" attitude I see here. Those of us who live within earshot of the waves are very blessed. Enjoy that. There's no need to be a jerk.
Okay, screw it, I'll just share anyway. I was very fortunate over several years to live near the ocean, in Hawaii, CA, and internationally. Then my dad died. They found Stage 4 cancer and he was gone in less than 2 months. I moved back to Baltimore to help with the family. Then I met my wife, with whom I have gone through a much-harder-than-normal pregnancy. Due to those and other reasons, I haven't surfed much this year. We are hoping to score a move to the Northwest next year and find big uncrowded surf out there. Do I 'love surfing less than you'? Okay sure, if you mean by not wanting to abandon the people I love, then I suppose. Have you charged big Hawaiian surf? Have you hung out with locals in the South Pacific and learned that the ocean is not a recreational spot but, even more, a source of life and spirituality? Those among us who have learned to love the ocean only to be pulled away are equally aware (and sometimes more) of such things. So, what I am saying is, please do not 'rub it in' because you get to surf way more often than some other people. By your logic, I could say "If you really loved surfing, then you would go live on the West Coast where they actually have consistent swell." You would offer some perfectly reasonable argument as to why that is not true, and you would be correct.