Maybe I'm rememberingit wrong. I could have sworn our flight to El Salvador was 4 hours maybe it was more like 4.5 idk, lol. I like to remember it as 4 just seems more within reach.
I went to school in Hawaii as a teenager and then later moved back for little while longer. At the time living next to an excellent left did not seem like a big deal to me, as a matter of fact, surfing was not a main thing in my life at all and I was involved with sports. Most kids I knew surfed and I'd get out there, too, mostly for social thing and to just kick it. Over the years I have sure met lots of super die hard enthusiasts, from Michigan, Poland, and who knows where else not and what always got to me was that the further one lived from good waves, the bigger enthusiast one was. Met a guy from Italy who knew more about surfing, boards, etc. then anyone in 808 I ever came across. He was an okay intermediate but a A+ enthusiast.
I love to surf nowadays, it's a nice, simple, activity. Low input, high reward. But it's not the only thing in my life and when I read a post from someone from Maine willing to sell a left kidney for more waves I would like to politely point him to the fact that, you know...YOU CAN MOVE, 9 times out of 10. They have few jobs left over in CA. Most times their surfing would get better and their hard core attitude stabilize. If it matters so much, why not...easy, brah. They sure have a fresh batch of dedicated haoles rolling into HI every year ready to out hard core everyone and live on ramen. Locals love them. Brazilians, too.
I got out yesterday and it was worth it, it wasn't convenient but well worth it on my scale. And, yes, I worked far so it was a long drive.
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