"89 of them couldn't catch waves." How very true..
man I even had one of the worst hangovers that I could remember, from the night before, from what I dare not mention . Anyway, still made the paddle out and got waves and Pictures. But by the end I was toast. Feeling like a big Pile of Poop, which in turn made me MISS That Opening! That you spoke about.
Man I felt stupid, really do not know what I was thinking the night before.
For the young ones out there,...if a big swell is going to happen, it is never worth missing it over Drink or Drugs>>>>>>>period. Do not waste your time, it is not worth it, in so many ways. Hollow pits are the only thing that you should be focused on.