That is awesome. Not only am I jealous of this story, I am jealous of all of you that scored the last couple of days. Doesn't get much better than clean chest high fall surf and light crowds. I could tell there was something nice rolling through while on the ferry Wednesday.
Getting on the ferry early in the morning with swell in the water is probably one of the most depressing feelings ever... I missed it too. This whole "work" thing is a real *****
"score" might be a stretch but I got a few. VB was decent in the waist-stomach range most of the day. I rarely say this... but I wish I could have gone north.
I got some fun little waves in VB. I didnt get on it until after work on Weds but i got some of the same, waist to stomach peaks. I was on it at dead high and was fun til around 6, once the tide starting going out hard the backwash was sort of closing everything out.
I was still sotoked to get a few waves on my new winter shortboard, and paddling out wearing a new excel 2/2 short sleeve chest zip suit. I freaking love short sleeve fulls, I would rather have one of those on that boardshorts and a wetsuit jacket. Water still right at 70 air in the 60s, a few fun waves and a little peak just sotuh of the pier practically to myself. It was enjoyable especially since waves are few and far between for me lately.