so OCmd is barrel town usually, even at high tide if its not to fat. especially when the swell is 13 seconds. like today it barreled even with a 5ft high tide[pretty high for OC] because of the quality swell. but as we approached a negative low tide it got crumbly? what gives? was it due to the TS moving away so quickly? but the wave size and period were still the same in town and on the buoy. i noticed real nutty currents trying to go all sorts of directions at the same time while i was out though. is this the culprit? cowabunga rad bro dudes
nah, that wasn't it either. i just checked the wind record for yesterday and it wasn't even onshore for OCmd. it was blown out the south which is cross shore. which usually allows it to barrel. Micah do you have any ideas? thanks duders
I would say west winds help by holding back the wave. South winds with a SE swell made a stronger sideshore current which scrambled the waves up. Also the tide could have been so low that it left barely any water on the bar itself so it couldnt suck it up and stand up.