How the f do you know what Laird Hamilton may or may not be putting into his body???? Im not yelling, Im just saying...
How the f do you know what Laird Hamilton may or may not be putting into his body???? Im not yelling, Im just saying...
You think Laird can't paddle for waves???Originally Posted by Juliaep
Good luck paddling into 80+ FT waves................just won't happen.
As for the steroids...highly unlikely...but who cares anyway???
THE GUY IS AMAZING, AND HAS HUGE BALLS. END OF STORY.
Wow, this thread took forever to read. Lots of good points on all fronts, but if you guys think that a movie about mavericks will spark crowded lineups there I think you are missing the point. Sure, paddle out when there are no waves. Float around, but if you think mediocre surfers are going to try and charge that wave when's its a solid 6-8 foot, I seriously doubt it. And like nature itself, when mavericks gets 12-15 foot, no one is going out there that doesn't surf big waves professionally. Sharks and cold water aside, the second an under skilled surfer gets 300 yards from the lineup, nature would take its course and they would be shore bound indeed. And not on a wave. It's nature. It's the most inaccessible, ridiculous freaks of nature there is. Pro big wavers from fu to the kid from OC two years ago die easily. No lineups will suffer in any real conditions. You may bump into guys on 10 foot guns on a knee high day at your local beach break, but that is just pure entertainment. I just picture Ben stiller and Andy irons talking in a parking lot when I think of this topic. People talk. Most people wont do and rightly so. I wouldn't worry about it. And for surfing "huge" west coast swells, I can say if you we're out with 100 people, it wasn't huge at all. Some
Of the best breaks out there are empty when it's truly pumping. Blacks will be packed. So will Swamis, but those are weak sauce in the grand scheme of things with regards
To big waves spots. swamis is a beginner wave at 15 feet and gets missed by any real NW swell that produces seriously large waves, it faces wsw and never passes 20 ft faces by CA standards. anything north of la jolla and south of the ranch wont be Huge unless its man made, and we all know that reference... cough orange county... cough. Gotta know where to look for huge waves, and there will never be more than a handful of guys on it. Huge is a word reserved for large women, not crowded west coast surf. Just sayin
Last edited by zach619; Oct 30, 2012 at 04:22 AM.
Sorry for the typos. I'm on the iphone
wait. zagaffer and zach619 aren't the same dude? i think they just showed up in the same thread for the first time. trippy. sorry for the mind flock. i'm on the texada.
Hola cresto, long time no see. Been busydrinking last night so I had to ad my three sense
No, same area code on my celly though. Probably surfed a lot of the same breaks over the years too.
zach619, i had to laugh when I read this: "To big waves spots. swamis is a beginner wave at 15 feet and gets missed by any real NW swell that produces seriously large waves, it faces wsw and never passes 20 ft faces by CA standards."
I know you know all this, but for everyone else:
Swami's is a beautiful wave, it offers a slow rolling, open faced, right point break that can connect a couple of sections. I’ve never thought of it as a big wave or even winter spot though. It’s always been a summer, longboarding spot to me. If anyone wants to watch something funny search for "Big Swami's" on Youtube and let the comedy ensue, one of those “You think your break is crowded?” moments. Swami’s at 6-10’ actually does take really good surfers, but only to navigate the speed bumps. I love Swami's (who am I kidding, I love any place with a wave that’s breaking), during the summer it's the one place that you know, no matter how flat it all looks, there might be a bump there; but it's always such a zoo. I just go fishin’ instead. When the sun’s just peeking up over the horizon, on weekdays, never on weekends or a holiday; it’s a nice place to be. It’s definitely a stand-out WC break though, some of the cleanest, little rights I’ve ever ridden at 2-3’. Anything bigger than a lil bump, I go someplace else.
zach619, I hope the EC is treating you well. SDCo hasn’t been anything special since we got that last decent swell in Sep, so you’re not missing too much (mush?). I'm thinking 2012 is not going to burn too bright in anybody's memories out here. Hopefully it goes out with a bang instead of a whimper.
sheeeee-t' 3 yrs + of wannabe....... But I surf, I paddle out, I have water draining from my nose at dinner on to my plate, Im going out in 15 minutes on the gulf of mexico to surf some slop 4-6 ft....
HMMMMMMM some dude on here told me "the best surfer is the one having the most fun"
Kiddos quit trying to be cool, Its all about fun and if ya get to the big island or any of those awesome spots good for ya.....
Have Fun thats why surfing was invented, out of a need to have funIMG_0022.jpg
Pass one of those coldies over here dude
great movie
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