The winter of ’06, that was epic West Coast surfing.
What's comparable on the East Coast to the Tijuana River Slough, Sunset Cliffs, PB Point, WindnSea, Blacks, the Del Mar reefs, Swami's & the Del Mar Jetty (only accessible via Camp Pendleton)? Those are just the San Diego County stand out spots; can’t be more than 60-100 miles of coast and a tiny sliver of what’s out here. The so-so spots, which are great too, are legion. Places like Tourmaline, Bird Rock, Pipes, Ponto, Tamarack and Oceanside. There are 5 piers in the county too. Where’s there a place on the East Coast like Trestles, Dana Point, Rincon; like Scorpion Bay, there’s no Puerto Escondido that I know of? I’ve never heard of anyplace like Todos los Santos. I hear they tow-in at some place called Belmar though. Where’s there a Wedge, a Half-Moon Bay, a Mavericks (had to tie it back to the original thread somehow)? There’s a lot of really good surfers from the East Coast, but as far as really good surf spots, I can’t think of any that are World Class Contenders as opposed to out here, where they are all over the place. OBX? Montauk? Belmar? Are they in the same class? I honestly don’t know. I know there’s nothin’ on the Gulf that compares.
I’ve always thought that’s why there are so many really good surfers FROM the East Coast or for that matter the Gulf, it’s why we went down to Ticla all the time. Once you’re bored stiff with the waves where-ever you are, if you want good surf, you have to go somewhere else. People from the Gulf and EC take surf vacations out here for a reason. When you want to go on a surf trip (i.e. find better, typically warmer and bigger, surf) and you live on the West Coast, you’re forced to go a little farther afield. SoCal is the easiest option for most mainlanders, compared to say Hawaii, the PR, CR, Indo, Nica, Australia, etc.; just because of travel time, jobs, infrastructure, visas and what not. Every place has that one day that sticks in people’s minds as “the best surf ever”. I’ve surfed OH hurricane swell at the end of Packery Channel in CC, TX; but that only happens once every 10 years, you can’t call it a great spot just cause it breaks that way once a decade. Every other time is sh!1_e. 6-12’ swells are fairly common out here, sometimes. Please send some this way, pretty please with sugar on top.
“Very steep drops, if you can make the drop in OC, you can surf Hawaii at the same size.” This is true, but 6’ Hawaii is a lot bigger than 6’ Cali, call it (Cali + (Cali/2) or maybe Cali2 as big. I have no idea how or why; one would think that 12” is the same everywhere, but it’s not. That’s an inverse ratio too, seems to get bigger the farther you are from 21 ° N, 158° W. How big is 6’ OCMD compared to 6’ Hawaii really, ‘cause I don’t think they’re using the same rulers? OCMD2, maybe OCMD² as big?
Just to reiterate, I’m not bashing the EC Surf or EC surfers or any of that, y’all get enough of that from MFitz73, gotta wear football pads to surf Rockaway. California has a lot of cr@p days and cr@ppy beaches too. I’m really, genuinely curious and purely trying to formant conversation, what’s an East Coast spot that can stand up in comparison to any of the stand out spots, big wave or small, on the West Coast on a consistent basis?
You have a point with the consistency factor. The problem is the crowds. I surfed the West Coast twice in big swells with a 100's of people in the lineup. Even the so called last crowded breaks have too many people. For that reason, I stopped going West 12 years ago. PR is a way better option for east coasters. Quick flight, better waves than Cali and empty lineups (even though this is changing now).
The movie is a beautiful tribute to an amazing guy! If you are more concerned with "how it will affect the crowds in my lineup", that is just being selfish.
Regardless, watching a super-hardcore guy go over the falls on a Mav's monster is going attract VERY few of us to paddle out on the huge days. To those it does inspire, I would wish them the best of luck. It takes some serious balls to charge giant surf, and NO ONE is truly prepared for the consequences. That's why many pro surfers have died out there. It's 100% commitment with the acknowledgement that you might not get to go home afterward. The ones who paddle giant waves have made that decision one way or another, either through courage, drugs, or stupidity. People who have not ever surfed are not going to go to Half Moon Bay after this movie, and they probably are not going to the 1st St Jetty because of it either. People who already surf already understand how difficult it is to ride the big stuff, and 99% of us will still sit on the shore when it gets really big. I really do not understand the fundamental argument here, and the rest of it is just a p!ssing contest.
I used to live on the Central Coast in California and knew some big waves surfers. One of my friends was an alternate for the Mavericks competition and was always "on call" in case surf was up and they called the competition. It was never my impression that people would just "descend" on Mavericks. The people who live out there are very respectful of the place and I don't think some yahoo could really get away with just paddling out and endangering his life and the lives of people who would have to rescue him. As for California surfing vs. east coast surfing - obviously the California waves are better but the line ups are crowded. As far as the localism - I've never had any attitude come my why on either coast but I'm much more cautious about where I surf in California. The worst localism I've experienced is in Hawaii - who would've thought............
I don't have much respect for the guys who get towed into the waves (like in Blue Crush - what a piece of crap of a movie by the way). I'm for the guys who can actually paddle out - it's more authentic, takes guts and is truer to the sport. Do you think Laird Hamilton is pumped up on steroids like Lance Armstrong?