Nice waves. Why hasn't somebody thrown that spot up on my quest for great EC surf? That's as good as anything we get out here.
It's the most well-known spot in RI, the same spot that had an expose' in Surfer over a decade ago that resulted in multiple death threats to the editors and author of the story. It's a fun wave but most of the time just really thick--you RARELY see barrel sections there. There are much better spots in RI--but all the good ones are rock reefs and slabs over rock shelves.
It's the most well-known spot in RI, the same spot that had an expose' in Surfer over a decade ago that resulted in multiple death threats to the editors and author of the story.
For anyone who doesn’t’ want to read my typically verbose post, it can be summed up as: Da Hui in RI, wha!?! California is crowded, but so chill an you know wise. That secret spot that you ain’t tellin no one about, ain’t so secret and there’s plenty of waves, so let me in on it, I won’t tell nobody ‘cept a few hundred of my closest friends, cross my heart n eat some pie. Seatec Astronomy (it’s an anagram).
Here’s the rest of it:
“multiple death threats” At first I laughed at that, but on second thought, that's not funny. I love to surf, but that’s a little over the top. It looked like a nice wave, but nothing to get all Redrum over. As counter-intuitive as this seems, one nice thing about SoCal is that there aren't really any "Secret Spots". Our fathers, uncles and grandfathers found 'em all and told their buddies. Then their buddies told their buddies. Grannis then took pictures of 'em and published them 50 - 60 years ago, showed the world and everybody decided that they wanted to be a surfer. That’s why my Uncle Harry drove an old Packard from Cherry Hill, New Jersey to Hermosa back in ’66. Never left until the day he died. Smart guy Harry. These days SurfLine has a cam on most ‘em. The worst thing about it all isn’t crowded line-ups; you get used to that, it’s all of the non-surfers who wanted a piece of the life-style and ran up the cost of housing until living within walking distance of any break has become out of reach for almost everyone, whereas just 15 years ago these same beach side communities were working class neighborhoods. The only semi-private spots in SD county are Gators, Breakers, the Del Mar Jetty and North to San Onofre; but if you have base access, they’re all yours. I kind of dig the fact that our Armed Forces have some spots all to themselves, they deserve it. Also, I can get on base ; )
Baja has a few and you better have a good 4x4, but I don't think there's a decent "unknown" spot from IB to Oxnard. The secret's been out for a minute, California has waves. There's some spots with reputations for localism; but that's not the same thing as, “Don’t tell nobody, gotta keep this one to ourselves”. That mentality is not as common here as it once was. Maybe it’s the fact that every break is packed. Maybe it's the belief that a wave out here is very much a community resource; that and the tourist revenue combined with the population explosion in CA over the last 30 years. The California coast is not an insular type of place (inland is), there’s too many people from other places here. There are surfer crossing signs along the 101 like there are deer crossing signs along the roads in the NE. Whether you’re a surfer or not, people embrace the surf culture as part of the life-style and heritage out here. They may not be able to paddle out, but they want to be part of it or at least get a tan, bleach their hair and wear the T-shirts. There’s not a break out here that you couldn’t just paddle out on, despite a particular break’s reputation for localism, because (shhh - don’t tell anyone) even the locals who’ve been surfing that break for 40 years, they only recognize half the guys out there. Admittedly, finding a place to park is a different story. Which is why I rarely surf farther than a bike ride away.
I can’t think of any place out here that isn’t typically crowded though. It comes with the territory. I think it’s a combination of the fact that they’ve all been surfed for so long and the size of the surfing population out here. You get used to it and it becomes a non-issue. I always forget that everywhere else isn’t as laid-back as here. You ask someone where they surf out here or where you should, they give it up without hesitation. Why? ‘Cause typically whomever is asking, has surfed that break at one time or another and there’s guaranteed to be 20 to 200 heads out there anyway, so what’s the big deal, right? It’s not like it’s some secret.
I did actually surf my home break alone two days ago. That happens once every six months when conditions are just perfect. By perfect, I mean colder than normal air temps, gray skies with a drizzle, 1-2’ with a 10-15k wind. Not worth it for a true Californian surfer, but perfect for a transplanted, South Texan sans the rain and air temps; I had to wear a 2:1 shorty. The wind was actually kicking up a nice, little, dumpy bowl right on the peak; just like home. Any other day, it’s as crowded as any other break out here and it’s one of the lesser known spots. It does pick up both North and South swells, which is a rarity in NoSDCo, hence the crowds. I just looked at the cam too, 10-20 guys on the peak in 10k, 2’-4’ chop, sun is shining though, can’t wait to get out myself. The spots no secret though, no place in Encinitas is. As anyone who’s ever PM’d me with a question about where to surf out here knows, I’m more n happy to give a heads up, there’s always another wave and plenty to go around.