Maybe sometimes a lack of motivation is what we need to get motivated again.
That and the adrenaline. So, what keeps you motivated to paddle out?


Some great replies here. I think you nailed it with the quotes above.
I've been addicted to keeping upper body strength from surfing since as long as I can remember-it's the best exercise there is, IMO.
Lately I got a little unmotivated too, but dragged myself up at dawn yesterday and got rewarded with a foot overhead glass...
It's remembering that last good day, that last carving turn, the chandelier falling on you and making it out, all those things that keep me motivated.
Gaffer, you're juggling a lot of things man, I can see how it would work on you, but you've got the right attitude and at least you're talking about it. I've got friends that just walked away from surfing for a lot less.