I feel ya UI. My stoke is definitely waning and more so in the winter. I always used to laugh at the old guys who bought boats and fished instead of surfed but I can see where they are coming from now.
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Thread: What keeps you motivated?
Dec 4, 2012, 04:12 PM #31
Dec 4, 2012, 04:32 PM #32
no apologies needed Uncle Irish.
but i think you just got to "pull the trigger". next time just suit up and paddle out. you know its just going to do you a world of good. surfing heals.
My 9 year old daughter. I all but walked away from it when she was born. Introduced her to it when she had enough swimming skills. We live on the Texas coast so our normal washing machine wind chop conditions can make it hard to become motivated to get wet.
This past week we've finally had a little bump. She was begging me to go surfing. Saturday we went out for about a two hour session. Nothing like surfing with your kids. Like Gaffer, we had a party that night and wasn't real motivated the next day to do anything but there she was at the foot of my bed asking when we are going to the beach.
Sucked it up and made it out about 10:30am. A little cleaner than the day before, waist high with a little better definition. As the tide came in it kept getting better and better and before we knew it we had perfect little chest high sets rolling in (this is OH when you are 9 years old!!!). By Noon it was a freakish 80 degrees with water temps at 66. We both had the wetsuits off and unless you looked at a calendar would have swore it was summer time. Would have probably missed it if it wasn't for the sheer stoke of a child.
Point is there is always something else to do, some reason to put it off, always people that can't understand how you could be screwing around surfing when there are so many "important" things to do. Sometimes you have to revert back to your childhood and understand what is really important in life.
The thought of surfing every day. When I'm working and its clean I get even more motivated to stay healthy and ready for the next session when i actually can get out there. Also my daughter. she surfs and shares the stoke. and of course playing music and getting better all the time
Dec 4, 2012, 05:16 PM #35
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Turtle Island
The fact that I have a perma-grin for the next two days after a sesh, and like Peajay said, surfing heals, puts everything in perspective for me.
For me it starts with the last session i had. I always try to remember at least one full wave from every session and use that as motivation and preparation for the next time. Then its the constant checking of forecasting sites, weather maps, tide/wind info and checking sandbars. In between sessions ill fix my equipment, check out new board designs and check in with friends in other areas that are scoring waves. Nothing gets you more motivated than seeing friends getting better waves than you! haha
During our season, July - November, i try to focus on working on different maneuvers or tweaking different aspects of my surfing. The night before picturing the maneuver in your head and visualizing. I was lucky enough this year to get a paddle board and start kiting so its rare that i go more than 5 days without surfing in some form which keeps the stoke and keeps you motivated.
Dec 4, 2012, 10:24 PM #37Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Berlin MD
Dec 5, 2012, 12:27 AM #38
I definitely don't surf as much as I used to.. But it's more do to responsibility than lack of stoke. I suf every day there's waves during daylight savings... And I bang in if it's firing. But I don't miss work if it's not going off.
I miss the days when I could surf every day, all day.
Now that I'm in my 30's and have bills (that come even whan there's waves) I pick my times... But I will always make time if it's going off. And I make sure I take a trip every year. Thank god my wife likes to lay on the beach and read!
Out of curiosity...why are December-June out of season? I would have thought winter swell would be a big part of S. Carolina surfing. No?
Last edited by ecoastprock; Dec 5, 2012 at 12:34 AM.
Dec 5, 2012, 12:42 PM #40